Laura-CCC4
14-04-10, 06:19 PM
Worming Your Guinea Pigs
Please note that the advice given in this thread does not replace that of a qualified veterinarian. If you are interested in worming your guinea pigs, please discuss all options with your vet. Worming is not recommended for guinea pigs under the age of 6 months.
It is a common practice to worm cats and dogs, and for farmers to worm their cattle and other livestock. The practice of worming rabbits is also on the increase to protect them from various parasites which can cause serious illness.
Worming guinea pigs is not a “new” idea, it’s been around for a good few years, most notably practiced and advocated by the Cambridge Cavy Trust guinea pig hospital. But not many guinea pig owners or indeed vets have come across the suggestion to routinely worm piggies, and do not understand why it could be an important part of their care. Many experienced owners have never wormed their animals and those guineas may never had any problems; it is the experiences of those owners it is hard to dispute, and near impossible to change their minds.
I aim to provide the much-needed information on worming guinea pigs but I do not wish to pressure owners into undertaking the practice. I will not judge anyone who remains against worming after reading this article because each person’s own experience and view is important to them; what I am trying to do is help owners make an educated decision about whether they want to worm their guineas. Owners must make their own choice about if they are interested in the methods discussed here and must discuss their thoughts with a veterinarian prior to starting any method of routine worming.
Why Worm Guineas?
Guinea pigs can get worms, but it’s fair to say it is rare. Worming is more about endoparasitic issues, those parasites which set up camp internally, inside your guineas. Not many owners will have heard of this happening, but it’s quite logical when you really think about it!
The main source of parasitic contamination – both external (ectoparasitic) and internal (endoparasitic) - is the food guineas eat. Forages like hay and grass, wild plants and weeds, and fruits and vegetables. You can’t protect these foods from all contamination as they grow “in the wild” so are naturally going to be at risk of contamination from insects and wildlife. You can’t worm insects or wildlife and you can’t control where they go. To a degree you can control where you pick wild plants and weeds for your guineas. But there’s no way of ensuring they are 100% clean, free from parasites and their eggs. Unless you grow your guineas own fruit and vegetables in a sheltered area yourself, you’ve no way of knowing how “clean” the foods really are. And hay, well, just think about the basics of what it is – grass, how it’s grown in the open, left to dry, then baled and often packaged. Parasites themselves may not survive more than a few weeks on the hay, but their eggs can last far longer – long enough to be ingested by guineas, and/or long enough that they hatch and reproduce.
Most owners do wash/rinse the fresh foods and sometimes even grass for their guineas, but again there are no guarantees that this will make the food totally clean and free from parasites. Sterilising or steaming hay to kill parasites is not really a viable option.
So what can I do to protect my guinea pigs from these parasites?
It is not possible to completely protect your guineas from parasites, there’s just no way to put up a resistant barrier to hold off all external and internal parasites. Even routine worming will not stop your guinea pigs from developing parasites. There is no way to feed a sterile diet; parasites are just a part of how things are – but it doesn’t mean that guineas are physiologically adapted or immune to this.
Most guineas will host external parasites at some time in their life, either mites or lice, and it is most common for these parasites to begin affecting guineas in the warmer spring and summer months. But cases of systemic infestation are not widely publicised or are misdiagnosed (put down to something else), or even written off as a one-off event rather than something that has built up over a period of time. It is common sense to consider that if the guineas can get lice or particular types of mite as a result of foraging in the hay, then surely, given that they are eating that hay…the parasites can infect the pig internally too. Over time, the constant ingestion of infected foods can lead to parasitic activity in the gut.
Aside from worming, there are methods of controlling the level of parasites. These include:
- Feeding a high-quality hay – green, dry, fresh and sweet-smelling;
- Regular bathing;
- Washing/rinsing all fresh foods.
What are the symptoms of an endoparasitic problem?
Symptoms present fairly mildly at first and can be a little confusing but, if not remedied, can become chronic and develop into a life-threatening problem. Systemic parasitic activity can prevent the absorption of nutrients through the gut wall, which results in the pig slowly become deficient and malnourished - not through an improper diet, but through a problem easily associated with the type of diet they have. Hence one of the first questions asked by any knowledgeable clinician/practitioner (be it veterinarian or rodentologist) of a guinea pig who is losing weight with no obvious cause, is if the guinea has been wormed.
Symptoms of an endoparasitic problem include:
- Weight loss – usually continual and very often unexplained i.e. the only symptom;
- Diarrhoea, or soft “cow patty” faeces;
- Loss of appetite;
- Distended (bloated) abdomen;
- Lethargy.
As you can see, the symptoms are very common among other illnesses so it is very easy to overlook or become baffled by the symptoms. A thorough evaluation of the guinea pigs life is important to assist diagnosis – this includes noting what the guinea pig eats, if allowed to graze outdoors, what the pig is bedded on (bedding can sometimes harbour parasites)…and if the guinea pig is regularly wormed or not.
Mild parasitic activity is not necessarily enough to lead to symptoms, the problem worsens the more parasites there are affecting the guinea thus the symptoms may seem to come out of the blue, which often lulls owners and clinicians into the lines of thought of immediate causes such as dietary or even poisoning, rather than something that may have been building up over a period of time.
How do I treat an endoparasitic problem then?
The treatment is the same as with worming, but the dose will need repeating to wipe out the parasites, as the infestation has established enough to be causing the above symptoms. Please do seek veterinary advice if your guinea is unwell.
How does worming prevent these problems from developing – and how do you worm guineas?
As I said before, it doesn’t - worming cannot stop any problems, there’s no way to do that completely. Worming is still beneficial though. Why? It works by routinely wiping out parasitic activity, thus eliminating all minor problems that may be present without yet being symptomatic – stopping them from building up into a serious problem. The point is it’s routine, it is one method of controlling the level of parasites affecting the guinea.
The way guineas are wormed is usually down to personal beliefs and thoughts – the basic choice is to worm herbally or medicinally.
The herbal solution recommended by Gorgeous Guineas is a natural product called Four Seasons Anti-Parasitic, available from Holistic Pet Supplies, an online store: http://holisticpetsupplies.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=87. Please see the information highlighted a few paragraphs below regarding the dose for adult guinea pigs (over six months old) and the frequency of dosing.
The medicinal option is the one that is most important to discuss with your vet, not least because the drugs used are POMs – Prescription-Only Medicines. The generic drug names are ivermectin and one of either albendazole or fenbendazole. There are various brand names for the drugs but most common are Ivomec (ivermectin) - the concentration tends to be 0.8% to 1% - and Valbazen 2.5% (albendazole) or Panacur 2.5% (fenbendazole). Please ensure that the concentrations of the drugs are correct before dosing the guinea pigs!
All doses are given orally. Alternatively, ivermectin may be given parenterally (by injection) or topically (on the skin, “spot on” ). The topical treatment is sold under the name Xeno 450. There is a product called Xeno 50 Mini but this is not recommended for worming purposes - simply because Xeno 50 is aimed at pigs under 800g which generally applies to guineas under six months old, who should not be given routine treatments.
Please check all doses with your vet and double-check prior to administering them.
HERBAL:
- Four Seasons Anti-Parasitic – 0.5ml, orally, once a month.
MEDICINAL:
- Ivomec (or Ivomec Super) – 0.1ml (2 drops), orally, once every 3 months.
OR
Xeno 450 – topically, treat as per instructions according to the weight of the guinea. Do not repeat the dose unless treating an active (symptomatic) infestation.
- Panacur OR Valbazen – 0.4ml, orally, once every 3 months.
(continued below)
Please note that the advice given in this thread does not replace that of a qualified veterinarian. If you are interested in worming your guinea pigs, please discuss all options with your vet. Worming is not recommended for guinea pigs under the age of 6 months.
It is a common practice to worm cats and dogs, and for farmers to worm their cattle and other livestock. The practice of worming rabbits is also on the increase to protect them from various parasites which can cause serious illness.
Worming guinea pigs is not a “new” idea, it’s been around for a good few years, most notably practiced and advocated by the Cambridge Cavy Trust guinea pig hospital. But not many guinea pig owners or indeed vets have come across the suggestion to routinely worm piggies, and do not understand why it could be an important part of their care. Many experienced owners have never wormed their animals and those guineas may never had any problems; it is the experiences of those owners it is hard to dispute, and near impossible to change their minds.
I aim to provide the much-needed information on worming guinea pigs but I do not wish to pressure owners into undertaking the practice. I will not judge anyone who remains against worming after reading this article because each person’s own experience and view is important to them; what I am trying to do is help owners make an educated decision about whether they want to worm their guineas. Owners must make their own choice about if they are interested in the methods discussed here and must discuss their thoughts with a veterinarian prior to starting any method of routine worming.
Why Worm Guineas?
Guinea pigs can get worms, but it’s fair to say it is rare. Worming is more about endoparasitic issues, those parasites which set up camp internally, inside your guineas. Not many owners will have heard of this happening, but it’s quite logical when you really think about it!
The main source of parasitic contamination – both external (ectoparasitic) and internal (endoparasitic) - is the food guineas eat. Forages like hay and grass, wild plants and weeds, and fruits and vegetables. You can’t protect these foods from all contamination as they grow “in the wild” so are naturally going to be at risk of contamination from insects and wildlife. You can’t worm insects or wildlife and you can’t control where they go. To a degree you can control where you pick wild plants and weeds for your guineas. But there’s no way of ensuring they are 100% clean, free from parasites and their eggs. Unless you grow your guineas own fruit and vegetables in a sheltered area yourself, you’ve no way of knowing how “clean” the foods really are. And hay, well, just think about the basics of what it is – grass, how it’s grown in the open, left to dry, then baled and often packaged. Parasites themselves may not survive more than a few weeks on the hay, but their eggs can last far longer – long enough to be ingested by guineas, and/or long enough that they hatch and reproduce.
Most owners do wash/rinse the fresh foods and sometimes even grass for their guineas, but again there are no guarantees that this will make the food totally clean and free from parasites. Sterilising or steaming hay to kill parasites is not really a viable option.
So what can I do to protect my guinea pigs from these parasites?
It is not possible to completely protect your guineas from parasites, there’s just no way to put up a resistant barrier to hold off all external and internal parasites. Even routine worming will not stop your guinea pigs from developing parasites. There is no way to feed a sterile diet; parasites are just a part of how things are – but it doesn’t mean that guineas are physiologically adapted or immune to this.
Most guineas will host external parasites at some time in their life, either mites or lice, and it is most common for these parasites to begin affecting guineas in the warmer spring and summer months. But cases of systemic infestation are not widely publicised or are misdiagnosed (put down to something else), or even written off as a one-off event rather than something that has built up over a period of time. It is common sense to consider that if the guineas can get lice or particular types of mite as a result of foraging in the hay, then surely, given that they are eating that hay…the parasites can infect the pig internally too. Over time, the constant ingestion of infected foods can lead to parasitic activity in the gut.
Aside from worming, there are methods of controlling the level of parasites. These include:
- Feeding a high-quality hay – green, dry, fresh and sweet-smelling;
- Regular bathing;
- Washing/rinsing all fresh foods.
What are the symptoms of an endoparasitic problem?
Symptoms present fairly mildly at first and can be a little confusing but, if not remedied, can become chronic and develop into a life-threatening problem. Systemic parasitic activity can prevent the absorption of nutrients through the gut wall, which results in the pig slowly become deficient and malnourished - not through an improper diet, but through a problem easily associated with the type of diet they have. Hence one of the first questions asked by any knowledgeable clinician/practitioner (be it veterinarian or rodentologist) of a guinea pig who is losing weight with no obvious cause, is if the guinea has been wormed.
Symptoms of an endoparasitic problem include:
- Weight loss – usually continual and very often unexplained i.e. the only symptom;
- Diarrhoea, or soft “cow patty” faeces;
- Loss of appetite;
- Distended (bloated) abdomen;
- Lethargy.
As you can see, the symptoms are very common among other illnesses so it is very easy to overlook or become baffled by the symptoms. A thorough evaluation of the guinea pigs life is important to assist diagnosis – this includes noting what the guinea pig eats, if allowed to graze outdoors, what the pig is bedded on (bedding can sometimes harbour parasites)…and if the guinea pig is regularly wormed or not.
Mild parasitic activity is not necessarily enough to lead to symptoms, the problem worsens the more parasites there are affecting the guinea thus the symptoms may seem to come out of the blue, which often lulls owners and clinicians into the lines of thought of immediate causes such as dietary or even poisoning, rather than something that may have been building up over a period of time.
How do I treat an endoparasitic problem then?
The treatment is the same as with worming, but the dose will need repeating to wipe out the parasites, as the infestation has established enough to be causing the above symptoms. Please do seek veterinary advice if your guinea is unwell.
How does worming prevent these problems from developing – and how do you worm guineas?
As I said before, it doesn’t - worming cannot stop any problems, there’s no way to do that completely. Worming is still beneficial though. Why? It works by routinely wiping out parasitic activity, thus eliminating all minor problems that may be present without yet being symptomatic – stopping them from building up into a serious problem. The point is it’s routine, it is one method of controlling the level of parasites affecting the guinea.
The way guineas are wormed is usually down to personal beliefs and thoughts – the basic choice is to worm herbally or medicinally.
The herbal solution recommended by Gorgeous Guineas is a natural product called Four Seasons Anti-Parasitic, available from Holistic Pet Supplies, an online store: http://holisticpetsupplies.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=87. Please see the information highlighted a few paragraphs below regarding the dose for adult guinea pigs (over six months old) and the frequency of dosing.
The medicinal option is the one that is most important to discuss with your vet, not least because the drugs used are POMs – Prescription-Only Medicines. The generic drug names are ivermectin and one of either albendazole or fenbendazole. There are various brand names for the drugs but most common are Ivomec (ivermectin) - the concentration tends to be 0.8% to 1% - and Valbazen 2.5% (albendazole) or Panacur 2.5% (fenbendazole). Please ensure that the concentrations of the drugs are correct before dosing the guinea pigs!
All doses are given orally. Alternatively, ivermectin may be given parenterally (by injection) or topically (on the skin, “spot on” ). The topical treatment is sold under the name Xeno 450. There is a product called Xeno 50 Mini but this is not recommended for worming purposes - simply because Xeno 50 is aimed at pigs under 800g which generally applies to guineas under six months old, who should not be given routine treatments.
Please check all doses with your vet and double-check prior to administering them.
HERBAL:
- Four Seasons Anti-Parasitic – 0.5ml, orally, once a month.
MEDICINAL:
- Ivomec (or Ivomec Super) – 0.1ml (2 drops), orally, once every 3 months.
OR
Xeno 450 – topically, treat as per instructions according to the weight of the guinea. Do not repeat the dose unless treating an active (symptomatic) infestation.
- Panacur OR Valbazen – 0.4ml, orally, once every 3 months.
(continued below)