Boars: Teenage, Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?

[Wiebke]

1 The hormonal teenage months
- What are the most difficult times?
- What are your boars' chances of making it together?
- What can help to boost your boys' chances?
- What does NOT work?
2 Fighting, bullying and when to separate
- What are the signs of a dysfunctional bond?
- How can I test whether a bond is no longer working?
- What to do if your boars had a bloody fight?
3 Life after separation
- List of options
- Not recommended solutions


1 The hormonal teenage months

It is a myth that boars cannot live together; the vast majority can be bonded and rebonded at any age. The key to any successful boar bond is character compatibility and mutual liking. An age difference (preferably as large as possible), especially when one of the pair is a teenager or baby, can additionally help to stabilise the bond, as only one boar hits the hormone spikes at any time.
Sadly, the vast majority of boars are sold as unmatched babies in often far too small cages or hutches, which is what has given boars their undeserved bad reputation. It is not their fault; they are failed by sellers who don't have the time, knowledge and largely no interest whatsoever in carefully bonding boars for character compatibility and buyers specifically requesting cute little baby boars, preferably litter brothers - yet another persistent myth!
The safest place to get a stable boar pair is a good standard rescue (links see further down in this thread). If you would love boars (which are often more personable than sows), consider getting an already stably bonded pair if possible; if one or both boars are adult, it will contribute to the stability.
The Myth About Boys


What are the most difficult times?
Guinea pig boars go through a hormonal phase roughly between 4-14 months old. These months are characterised by bouts of testosterone which manifest in lots of dominance behaviours.
Things can be kick-started a bit earlier, often during an introduction shortly before the teenage months would start. While boars are able to make babies from 3-5 weeks old, it is usually the descent of the testicles that triggers the teenage months.

Typically, boars experience a strong spike of testosterone when the testicles start descending at around 4 months old, then again at around 6 months of age when testosterone output is at an all time high. These are generally the times when the worst personality clashes and fights/fall-outs happen between boars that are not character matched and too dominant to get on with each other; this age is also the most tricky age for bonding/rebonding boars.

Another very difficult period is usually the period between 8-10 months old, but it results much less often in full-out fights although boars can often be right up at the bearable limit of scrapping and winding each other up for several weeks.

Boars that have had a very smooth ride so far can suddenly wake up and get into trouble right at the end at a year old or slightly over when the other pairs are already over the worst.
Boars generally reach a hormonally more settled adulthood by around 15 months of age.

Occasionally adult boars can experience a sudden short-term hormonal spike or get into fights when they experience major changes to their cage or environment, which triggers a renewal of dominance as they re-establish their hierarchy in new surroundings.
Many adult pairs can be rebonded again after cooling down overnight with some time out from each other unless the fight has resulted in serious feep bites or unless the bond has already been dysfunctional before the move.
You can minimise the risk of dominance fights in new territory by rubbing the new or extended cage with some soiled bedding and by using their current bedding in the new cage to make it smell 'right' and 'theirs'.


What are your boars’ chances of making it together?
Pairs
The good news is that more baby boar pairs than not actually make it through teenage together.
It doesn’t matter whether they are siblings or not; the key to success is whether their individual personalities balance well enough. Two dominant brothers will inevitably clash the same as any other all-dominant pairings. Teenage is the big test.
An age difference can go quite a way towards stabilising a bond because only one boar is hitting the teenage spikes at any time but it depends very much on the personality combination. A dominant teenager can easily start to bully an adult submissive boar but chances of success are much higher; especially when you can rescue date boars - this is also the best way of bonding single or bereaved boars of all ages. It is a many times debunked myth that adult boars are unbondable. In fact, the older boars are, the more easy to bond they become again after teenage since their testosterone output decreases over time. It is however very much an individual thing; all you can ever do is to try and give it a chance.

Trios
90% of baby boar trios will not make it to adulthood together. They usually end up with either one dominant boar making war on the other two or two ganging up on a third (bullying). If you are unlucky, you will end up with three boys that won’t get on with any of the others - about as often as a trio will work out.
Chances are going up the older the boars are (especially as pensioners) but it all always comes down to the individual personality mix and how much the piggies involved want to be with each other.
The stress of introducing a third boar (baby or not) to a pair can distabilise it and can lead to a fall-out of the original pair. If in any doubt, please leave a stable boar pair be.

Quartets or quintets
VERY little chance. Virtually none with four teenagers or trying to introduce/merge younger adults - count yourself lucky if you are one of the very few succesful ones that have the space to allow each boy their territory.
The format can work for old age pensioner boars whose testosterone output has run out und companionship becomes more important or in a disabled/carer companion setting but it all depends very much on the personality combination. There are no guarantees that your combo will work.
At the best, you end up with two working pairs, but it is more likely that you end up with one pair and two singles. We even have had a sad case where all four boars fell out with each other and would not accept any of the others.

Please don't be tempted to add another boar to a working couple or to merge two happily bonded boar pairs - it is usually a recipe for mayhem and disaster!

Boars are best kept either in pairs or otherwise in bachelor herds of over 10 boars with ideally at least 1 square metre per boar and separate accommodation available in case of bullying/fights or illness.

For more information, please read this very helpful guide link here: Comprehensive Guide to Guinea Pig Boars

 

[Wiebke]

What can help to boost your boys’ chances?
Please keep in mind that these tips are not cure-alls; but they can help to remove or minimise the most likely flashpoints for conflict.

- Lots of space
It really helps if the boys can get away from each other; ideally 2x5 ft tradional cage or hutch or 2x4 C&C grid cage on the same floor or even better 2x5 C&C grid cage (ca. 2x6 ft traditional cage) for two boars.
We recommend looking at C&C cages for boars, as they can be extended, divided and adapted with more than one story according to changing needs and easy splits in case of fall-outs.

- Having one of each per boar when it comes to furnishings and accessories
This includes hideys, cosies, bowls, water bottles and access to hay that cannot be blocked by other boars. Ideally, you have every same item well away from the others, so no boar can become possessive over more than what is “his”. Giving each boy his mini-territory at either end with hay in the middle will help to keep peace.if you have got a hay loft, make sure that there is another acess to hay that cannot be blocked, like a hay rack downstairs.

- Feeding frequency/meal sizes
Ideally, you also feed your boys fresh food (1 cup per piggy per day) and pellets (1 tablespoon per piggy per day) sprinkled around the cage in smaller portions; this prevents food hogging and encourages natural foraging behaviours at the same time.
Over three quarters of a good guinea pig diet should be unlimited hay, so your piggies won’t go hungry in the meantime! That way, there won’t be any bowls with leftovers that can spark discussions. It also minimises the chances of food bullying.

If you prefer bowls and have a very dominant boar, have a third 'distraction' bowl handy to give your under-boy a chance at getting his fair share. Place the bowls more than a body length apart (the further the better) so that your bully boy cannot physically control them all.
Alternatively, sprinkle feed veg and pellets around the cage; this works also an added enrichment.

- Keeping any territory changes to a minimum
Changes in territory or surroundings trigger a new dominance sort-out. In extreme cases this can include roaming and lawn time or even a cage clean.

In that case, you best rub both boys with a soft cloth and then the new bedding and cleaned furniture with the scented cloth to make the cleaned cage smell "right" or give them a bit of time to play in and scent mark the new bedding before you use it in any new cage or layout in order to avoid another hierarchy battle and a potential fall-out.

- Respecting the hierarchy
Always handle, cuddle, groom, feed and move the most dominant boar first. It is his right and he will not feel the need to re-establish his dominance over his companion upon his return; the under-boar is also more relaxed when he knows he is not going to be in trouble.

Here are more tips: A Comprehensive Guide to Guinea Pig Boars


What does NOT work?
- Litter brothers
It is a persistent myth that litter brothers or related boars will not fall out. In fact, a large difference in age (ideally one adult boar) can go a lot further to stabilise a boar bond than being related, as only one of the boys is going through the tricky teenage months.

- Adding a baby boar or two to your couple
Adding a third boar can destabilise an existing boar bond; even with adult boars, trios are more likely to fail than to succeed. Please do not break what is not broken, however tempting it is; rather get another stably bonded boar pair to live separately.
Working trios are more likely the older boars get and the less they are ruled by testosterone, but this is very dependent on finding exactly the right balance of personalities. For a working trio you need at least two or three laid-back submissive boys. We have had several instances where a bereaved adult boar attached himself to another adult boar couple in the same household.
Boars with disabilities (blindness, deafness etc.) also seem to be happier to live together in trios or quartets. As they are much more dependent on the company/support of their caring mates, the dynamics are somewhat different to normal boar bonds.

- Neutering boars to calm them down
This does not work for guinea pigs; as it doesn’t change their personality or their dominance behaviour. Two dominant boars will still not get on. Sadly, there are still a fair number of non-piggy savvy general vets who think that guinea pigs are the same as rabbits!

- Smearing noses with vicks or otherwise masking boar scent
These breeder tricks may work for half an hour, but they generally fail as soon the boars get into the dominance phase of rebonding. All they do is retard the inevitable bonding process.
Vicks additionally contains substances that are noxious for guinea pigs.

 

[Wiebke]

2 Fighting, bullying and when to separate

It is a very difficult and stressful time, especially for inexperienced newbies to guinea pigs, when their cute little babies suddenly turn into mean machines! The tendency is to separate too early at the first sign of dominance behaviours; the advice is to leave your boys together until things are getting truly dangerous or if you happen to come across the aftermath of a bad fight.


What are the signs of a dysfunctional bond?
- Incessant humping/mounting and chasing around the cage by a boar that is pumped up by testosterone and simply won’t let his mate be. This can either lead to a fight-back by his companion, or the companion becomes withdrawn/depressed if it is not in his nature to stand up for himself.

- Preventing the companion from eating, sleeping or getting any respite. The typical signs of a bullied piggy are being quiet/withdrawn/depressed and often weight loss/failure to put on weight as much as the comrades. You also need to check a bullied piggy for bite wounds to the rump, which can masquerade as little scratches. However, the stress can also manifest as mange mites with self-biting or be a sign of an underlying health problem, so please see a vet to exclude any medical angle.

- Increased and increasingly acrimonious face-offs and scrapping.

Here is a list of dominance behaviour in ascending order of aggression. Any mild and medium behaviours you have to tolerate. Please note that loud screaming by the “underboar” is NOT PAIN, but submission!
Dominance Behaviours In Guinea Pigs
Moody Guinea Pigs: Depression, Bullying, Aggression, Stress, Fear and Antisocial Behaviour


How can I test whether a bond is no longer working?
You can try a trial separation. If the “underboar” is suddenly perking up noticeably when away from his mate, you know for sure that he is not happy in their relationship. If both boys still want to be back with each other, then you know that their bond is still functioning.

However, you can trial separate only so often without additionally destabilising a bond that is already under stress, so you need to consider carefully when to do it.

For re-introductions after a trial/short-term separation, please follow our advice in these threads here:
Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics
Bonds In Trouble


What to do if my boars have had a bloody fight?
- Firstly, please separate both boars immediately and check them carefully over for bites or bad scratches especially on the face, neck and ears and the rump.
Disinfect any wounds with hibiscrub or sterile saline solution (both available from a pharmacy). You can make your own saline by mixing 1 teaspoon of salt with 1 pint/500 ml of boiled, cooled water.
Please see a vet promptly for an antibiotic if the bites are deep or as soon as you notice any swelling or pus in the bite areas in the weeks after (abscess).

- Take a deep breath and wait until you yourself have had a chance to recover from the shock!
If your two boys have got full-on bite wounds, please do not try to put them back together; it won't work, as much as you would like it to!
If it is just shallow scratch wounds, you can try a re-introduction on neutral ground after a cooling down period of 1-2 days and a “buddy bath” to remove the testosterone stink from their coats to prevent them from getting riled up again. Please also make sure that you thoroughly clean the cage and all furnishings.
Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics

Please keep in mind that any re-introductions may not work out and that you cannot count on your boars getting back together as adults if you have separated preventatively. Many won’t. Some may get as far as sharing roaming time together, but they are usually not likely to share their territory with their mate again.

A little nick to the ear or a glancing blow generally doesn't mean the end of the road; it is the serious full-on deep bites to the rump and face that will mean the end of the road. In bullied boars you can also find lots of bites to the back of the rump wher he cannot reach.
Please also make sure that your piggies' 'wounds' are not self-inflicted because of mange mites or ringworm in their initial stages. They can start with a bloody scab from scratching.
New piggy problems: URI - ringworm - skin parasites

 

[Wiebke]

3 Life after separation

There is no ideal solution that fits all situations. Your personal options very much depend on how much space, time and access to a good rescue or vet you have got. That can vary enormously. Please take your time to think things through and research all your options. You are always welcome to open a thread on the forum for further support and help.


List of options
The following solutions take your boys’ need for company and an assured future into account. Please be aware that any solution that allows your boys to make their own choice before you bring home a companion is going a long way towards stabilising a bond compared to bringing home an untried companion, especially one that you cannot return if they don't work out after an introduction at home.

You may also want to consider where you get any further piggies from or handing your own piggies to. This link takes a helpful in-depth look at the pros and cons of the various places: Rescues (Adoption and Dating), Shops, Breeders or Online? - What to consider when getting guinea pigs

List of recommended good standard UK guinea pig rescues: Guinea Pig Rescue Centre Locator
List of recommended guinea pig rescues in other countries: Guinea Lynx :: Rescue Organizations


Living alongside each other with interaction through bars for constant stimulation
Pros:
You do not need to get more guinea pigs. Suitable for a pair that can't live together and can't live apart, but can remain bonded with round the clock interaction through the bars. It is also the best option if you haven't got access to a good rescue or a good vet.
Cons:
Direct contact through the bars is needed to ensure full communication on all levels (scent, body language and vocal). The boars need to be able to stay in constant visual/sniffing contact with other for mutual stimulation. Body language is an integral art of guinea pig communication. The need for company is not negated by the need to have each their own territory.

However, two cages/hutches on top of each other won’t unfortunately do the trick; just staying in hearing range is also not replacing whole body interaction.
A double or triple tier 2x3 C&C grid cage (105 x 70 cm) with a ramp and a hayloft on the other level for interaction can be a solution if space is very cramped, but more ground space and adjoining cages or hutches with a mesh window between them would be better to help keep the bond alive.

Boar dating at a good rescue
Pros:
Letting your boars choose a same sex companion under expert supervision will go a long way towards a stable bond, as character compatibility is key for any successful guinea pig bond. Please use a good standard rescue, so you only come home with a guaranteed healthy companion if there has been success. An age gap can also help, especially when bonding a teenage boar.
This is by far the least risky way of bonding single boars, as you have got the backing of the rescue and you won't end up with having to accommodate yet another single boy if things go wrong.
A few rescues offer a week long bonding stay to introduce up to three boars during that time and to make sure that any resulting bond is stable and stress-tested. Because it is very time consuming, most rescues are not able to. There usually waiting lists, but if you have access to such a rescue, it is well worth going there. Any resulting boar bond is comparable to a sow bond in terms of stability. Boars of all ages can be bonded this way.
Cons:
You double the number of boars. There is also a (noticeably reduced!) risk of a repeat of your problems if a baby companion is hitting the hormones, but by going rescue, you will be able to contact the rescue again if there are problems along the way and have their support.
Rescues (Adoption and Dating), Shops, Breeders or Online? - What to consider when getting guinea pigs

Keeping and rebonding one boar at a good standard rescue while surrendering the other boar
Pros:
You are keeping the same number of boars if you are strapped for space, but allowing both boars to find a new companion and a good home.
Cons:
You will have to choose between your boys and that usually comes at an emotional price.
You will also have to make sure that you choose a good standard rescue that does not rehome boars into single situations and that has a non-killing policy to make sure that the boy you are surrendering has an ensured happy and well cared for future of his own, too. By far not all rescues will consent to this.

Getting a baby boar companion for each boar
Pros:
If you do not have access to a good rescue or another place to stage a meet&greet for your boy before rehoming, or a good vet for neutering, this is an option to consider. Look for preferably submissive, but healthy and active babies. Start with bonding your most dominant boar, as he will likely be the more difficult to match. Please look up our bonding tips before intros or start a thread in this section.
Cons:
While the age gap means that your boys won’t hit the hormonal spikes together, there is of course still a certain risk of fall-outs when the youngsters hit the big hormones themselves as you cannot character match them. Please be aware that not all boars click with every baby boy; there are decided likes and hates on first sight!

Neutering for each boar to live separately with a sow or two
Pros:
Cross gender bonds are the most stable of all once initial acceptance has happened. Fall-outs are virtually unknown and the bond can often be very loving. A neutered boar living with sows is living the dream!
For a happy bond, dating sows at a good rescue is a decided plus – that way you can make sure that your piggies click with each other and that any sows are health and not potentially pregnant.
A neutered boar can live one or more sows, but you cannot have more than one neutered boar in a group.
Cons:
Again, you end up with at least four guinea pigs and two cages, and it is not a quick fix solution. In order to minimise the operation/post-op complications risks, you need to find either a general vet with plenty of experience in guinea pig neutering (usually for a rescue) or an exotics specialist with lots of practice in small furries operations. Finding the right vet can really make all the difference and is crucial for the success rate! Depending on the country, a neutering operation can be very expensive.
You will also have to factor in a full 6 weeks post-op wait until your boys are 100% safe to go with girls. I have the daughter from a supposedly safe over 5 weeks post-op boar (not one of mine) and have since heard of more cases, just to prove this particular point that it can really happen as late as that! I have yet to hear of an over 6 week post-op pregnancy, which is nowadays safely practised by most good standard rescues.
Neutered / De-sexed Boars And Neutering Operations: Myths And Facts


Not recommended solutions

Dropping one or both boys back to the shop they came from
These boys will have to live as single piggies in an unchecked home; their fate and even survival is potluck.

Dropping one or both boys to a shelter with a euthanizing policy
Any boar that is labelled as a “biter” comes with a straight death sentence attached (as he has no realistic chance of finding an adopter). The time of grace for any animals in shelters before euthanizing can be extremely short in some places. Please always tray to find a rescue with a non-kill policy!

Advertising one or both boars on a free-ads site
Please be aware that these sites are being trawled by people looking for unwanted pets to feed their snakes and reptiles with or to use them as bait for dogs. It is often the female partners that are sent to collect the animals and stolen set-up pictures are being used to fool the unwary. Please always check a new home in person and don’t go through if a visit is not possible at the last minute for whatever reason.
If you really want to advertise your pets on free-ads, we very strongly recommend to ask for money and to home check in person, and not just go by a (stolen) picture.

Handing on a single boar to a friend or acquaintance
Giving one boar to a friend or acquaintance where he will be single, unless they already have got well-kept guinea pigs that you can home check and that he can live alongside with. Be aware that you won't be necessarily able to stay in contact.

Having both neutered boars living together
Neutering doesn't change social boar behaviour, dominance or personality!
More information on what boar neutering does and does not: Neutered / De-sexed Boars And Neutering Operations: Myths, Facts and Post-op Care

Putting two neutered boars to live in the same group with sows - IT WON'T WORK!
Unfortunately, this is a straight recipe for disaster; even more so with boars that have a lot of grudge between them. While boars that have always lived around sows produce a calming compound, this is not the case for boars that have not had this; it will only cause further and nastier fights.
Several neutered boars and sows living together works only with a very large space (like a full good-sized room) and with larger numbers but you will still need to be prepared for personality clashes and the need for a separated space.
Adding More Guinea Pigs Or Merging Pairs – What Works And What Not?