Non-tippable small bowls?

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pelicano

pelicano

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Has anyone come across any small non-tippable bowls to buy? My 3 have their own food bowls (stops squabbles!), but because they are small (but ceramic), they tip them. Also, I want to give them a water bowl as well as a bottle, as Holly loves it. But, the big (ish) ceramic one I've been using takes up valuable space that I don't want to lose in their pen.
 
some of the ceramic ones are huge and do take a lot of space up,its a pity because theyre the only ones that dont tip
 
I think I was hoping for some sort of innovative new design or something that won't tip. ;D I wonder about the ones with sloping sides. Could try that maybe?
 
my bowls are hard plastic and have a flat base with a rim on the base if you know what I mean it takes some high lifting to turn them over I got them from Jollyes pet supplys
 
My Riffy is a nightmare about upsetting the cereal bowl ::)

the best I have found is a pets at home cat bowl - they are fluorescent and a bit bigger.
 
Michellemuffin♥ said:
the cat diner good girl at 99p are the ones I use and never tip over
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These bowls aren't bad, I have ones similar but they are slightly taller. O0
 
Hey all (newbie here)!

I was taught at college (I went to Writtle College and studied animal care for 3 years) that its better not to use bowls and scatter the food everywhere as it stimulates their minds to have to forage and imitates the behaviour they would do in the wild.
 
Cozmo said:
Hey all (newbie here)!

I was taught at college (I went to Writtle College and studied animal care for 3 years) that its better not to use bowls and scatter the food everywhere as it stimulates their minds to have to forage and imitates the behaviour they would do in the wild.
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You were taught this for guinea pigs? ?
 
Yup...guinea pigs, rabbits, gerbils, chinchillas, mice, rats and hamsters on the hole love it.

If you can imitate as much of wild behaviour as possible the happier the animal will be because it is constantly stimulated...obviously theres only so much you can do with domestic rodents, but studies have shown that a simple thing like scattering food around the cage/hutch increases the animals happiness and contentness.
 
:o Rabbits, that is a big no no. I wouldn't put any guinea pigs food on the floor either. I was taught too put the food all over the cage for hamsters, mice, gerbils etc, not rats as they had wire bottom cages. But rabbits and guinea pigs is in my book a big no no, especially rabbits. ::) :)
 
Well all the rodents I have had over the years have absolutely loved it...especially my rabbits and guinea pigs, and anybody I've suggested it to have noticed a great improvement in their animals.
 
I used to scatter, but when the boys got sick we had to adjust how we fed them as they needed strict supervision on what really was eaten. Now i've got Duke permanently on dishes for eating so i know exactly what he eats... :o :o O0
 
I wouldn't personally scatter but mine manage it very well by themselves, they trough it out of the bowl then rummage around on the floor for the best bits!
 
Yup CC...but then you could say that you shouldn't let your buns n pigs graze in the garden on grass. Its no worse than them cleaning their feet or them eating hay thats been on the floor.

Later people, gotta get back to work.
xx
 
There are other things you can do to keep rabbits and guineas stimulated. Scattering on the floor is unhygienic and has no real benefits, where putting the food in a bowl does. To me it just seems like laziness. Wolves in the wild don't eat everyday, so should we just feed dogs once in three days? My point being there is a big difference between the wild and captivity. :)
 
Cavy Crazy said:
There are other things you can do to keep rabbits and guineas stimulated. Scattering on the floor is unhygienic and has no real benefits, where putting the food in a bowl does. To me it just seems like laziness. Wolves in the wild don't eat everyday, so should we just feed dogs once in three days? My point being there is a big difference between the wild and captivity. :)
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certainly is, totally agree with you :)
 
Pelicano, Waitrose do Tapas dishes that are shallow (the Tapas are horrible, some of them lol!) They are an ideal size for piggies especially my OD ones that don't seem comfy with the deep ones. So, grab a Tapas from Waitrose- there's 2 sizes of bowls in dark brown china, nearly half my bowls are made up of these now, they're ideal. * thinks about sourcing them without the Tapas* O0
 
I've had a Mason and Cash (I think that's the name anyway?!) dish now since 1992. Despite drops, it hasn't broken and it never ever tips. Only downside is that it says "rabbit" on it!
 
I bought mine some small metal bowls that have a holder that hooks onto the hutch, since I bought these I've noticed they have stopped selective eating as they eat it as it comes they use to just tip the lot up and eat the best bits.

On the same line I recently bought hayracks too so I could monitor what they were eating.

The hutches are much cleaner although I know you cant have these with all cages.

Tracy
 
Lots of interesting suggestions here, thanks. O0

I bought one of those clip on bowls once, which would be ideal for the water bowl, but I seem to remember it didn't fit my grids.
 
Cavy Crazy said:
There are other things you can do to keep rabbits and guineas stimulated. Scattering on the floor is unhygienic and has no real benefits, where putting the food in a bowl does. To me it just seems like laziness. Wolves in the wild don't eat everyday, so should we just feed dogs once in three days? My point being there is a big difference between the wild and captivity. :)
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Yes there are other things you can do...and my advice was only an option/opinion....if somebody chooses to take it then fine, if they don't thats just as fine as well...there's no need to jump down my throat and try and prove that my method is strictly wrong just because I'm a newbie...and because I'm a newbie I must have no clue whatsoever how to look after animals.

And in your new thread devoted to the subject it even says...

"It is likely that the majority of rabbits are infected at a very early age from their mother."

So therefore it is more likely that the young animals contract it but the older animals are more immune to it so greatly/massively reduced.

As I said..it was only an option...no need to get defensive about it.

Let's just agree to disagree and move on.
 
I haven't jumped down your throat, I have just stated my opinions so that members who haven't kept animals before see there are two arguments and can choose how they would like to feed their animals. :)
 
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