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After the trim and bath, all dried out

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Pat Shields

Adult Guinea Pig
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Now he looks like a guinea pig! His fuzzy curls are gone, but they will grow back. I tried to get rid of the red-eye; I succeeded somewhat, but the eyes still look strange. As the hours pass, he is acting livelier. Are they nocturnal or diurnal? And should I take away the food at night?

guineapig_forum.jpg


A sepia tone of the same scene

guineapig_sepia_forum.jpg
 
Guinea pigs in the wild are most active at dusk and dawn (there's a term for this, but I can never remember what it is) and you may find that this is the case with this little guy as well. However, many are the most active when you are. They will also be periodically active throughout the day and the night. They have to eat at least once every four hours so they will be up and moving around at all times of the day and night as a result.

In other words, you should [*]not[/*] take his food away at night. Guinea pigs are lagomorphs. They have a cecum, which is sometimes called a second stomach by some people. Food always has to be moving through the cecum in order to prevent bloat. Bloat, gastrointestinal status and system shut down result from a lack of constant food intake. The end result is death and it doesn't take long to happen in most guinea pigs, which is one of the reasons I think some of us find it surprising he survived his former living conditions with the woman you got him from.

Your little guy always needs food available. His diet should consist primarily of hay, but you should always make pellets available too, in order to ensure he has access to, and is getting, enough food. If he doesn't eat the hay for some reason, you still know he has pellets he's consuming.

By the way, since he's a baby, he should have alfalfa hay and alfalfa based pellets in order to promote healthy growth. At somewhere between 6 months and 1 year, dependent upon the source, you'd want to switch to Timothy hay, orchard grass, or a similar grass hay, as the primary diet, and timothy hay based pellets. Alfalfa is higher in fat and calcium which help young piggies and pregnant and lactating mothers, but is generally considered to be only appropriate as a treat for teenage and adult piggies.

Pigs are prone to the development of bladder and kidney stones, which is the reason calcium dietary intake is so important to consider. Phosphorus also plays a role. You have to be careful about veggie diet components for the same reason in adult pigs.

If you don't have alfalfa available and only have timothy hay, that's ok. You can choose veggies higher in calcium for the first however many weeks he's with you to help his little body grow.
 
He is beautiful, bet he enjoys been pampered
 
Oh wow he looks gorgeous after a bit of pampering.
 
I think its amazing what you've done for this little guy. I saw the pics from your other thread and he looks so much better and brighter now. He's obviously not had the best start in life, but hopefully now he's getting proper care he'll grow into a happy and confident piggy xx
 
Pat i have just been reading through all your threads and you are truly amazing. That guinea pig landed on his feet the day he met you and i really hope that you decide to keep him because i think you will be a fantastic owner. The outlook from your house looks beautiful by the way and i almost wish i was there. You are such a kind person and you deserve a medal for what you have done for that little guy and it also seems that you have rescued other animals in the past. Please keep him and stay with us on the forum as you are so descriptive and a joy to read about x
 
He is lovely! Well done for taking him in and finding out how to look after him. There's some good advice from GPCottage. There's a list of foods he can and can't have here http://www.theguineapigforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=42
(sorry couldn't remember if anyone had put it on the other thread) introduce new veggies gradually and one at a time so it doesn't upset his tummy.
 
ahhh he doesn't exactly look too impressed does he rolleyes:))
He really has some gorgeous colours in his quiff x)

You've been given fab advice re the best foods and not removing foods at all, thanks to everyone!
 
Oooh he is adorable, looking better already! he must be happier if he's livelier - just wait till he starts squeaking for his food :) such a lucky boy to have you- keep posting :)
 
Well, maybe no medal. . .

you deserve a medal for what you have done for that little guy
Well, maybe no medal, but I will take all the information youse guys can pass along to help keep him alive and healthy. After all, it takes a village to raise a guinea pig. . . .rolleyes
 
Guinea pigs in the wild are most active at dusk and dawn (there's a term for this, but I can never remember what it is) and you may find that this is the case with this little guy as well. However, many are the most active when you are. They will also be periodically active throughout the day and the night. They have to eat at least once every four hours so they will be up and moving around at all times of the day and night as a result.

In other words, you should [*]not[/*] take his food away at night. Guinea pigs are lagomorphs. They have a cecum, which is sometimes called a second stomach by some people. Food always has to be moving through the cecum in order to prevent bloat. Bloat, gastrointestinal status and system shut down result from a lack of constant food intake. The end result is death and it doesn't take long to happen in most guinea pigs, which is one of the reasons I think some of us find it surprising he survived his former living conditions with the woman you got him from.

Your little guy always needs food available. His diet should consist primarily of hay, but you should always make pellets available too, in order to ensure he has access to, and is getting, enough food. If he doesn't eat the hay for some reason, you still know he has pellets he's consuming.

By the way, since he's a baby, he should have alfalfa hay and alfalfa based pellets in order to promote healthy growth. At somewhere between 6 months and 1 year, dependent upon the source, you'd want to switch to Timothy hay, orchard grass, or a similar grass hay, as the primary diet, and timothy hay based pellets. Alfalfa is higher in fat and calcium which help young piggies and pregnant and lactating mothers, but is generally considered to be only appropriate as a treat for teenage and adult piggies.

Pigs are prone to the development of bladder and kidney stones, which is the reason calcium dietary intake is so important to consider. Phosphorus also plays a role. You have to be careful about veggie diet components for the same reason in adult pigs.

If you don't have alfalfa available and only have timothy hay, that's ok. You can choose veggies higher in calcium for the first however many weeks he's with you to help his little body grow.

Guinea pigs are of the order Rodentia (aka rodents!) - the order lagomorpha (lagomorphs) is made up of rabbits, hares and pikas (which are far too cute!)
 
Guinea pigs are of the order Rodentia (aka rodents!) - the order lagomorpha (lagomorphs) is made up of rabbits, hares and pikas (which are far too cute!)

:x You're absolutely right. Obviously I was tired! I guess my bias in that argument that has gone on from time to time about reclassifying piggies to the lagamorph category came shining through in my sleepy response.
 
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