Bonding 2 male pigs

Daisyjb

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Hi, we are relatively new pig owners and recently adopted 2 boars (Wicket - 2yrs, and Jones, 6yrs) from a local rescue centre. Sadly, our older boy, Jones, passed away last week and we have adopted another younger male. His name is Bailey, he is 1 yrs old and has never lived with another pig before and has hardly been handled at all. He is very sweet and submissive, we introduced him to Wicket (who is also very sweet and submissive - or so we thought) at the rescue centre and felt confident that Wicket would easily become the ‘dominant’ male and there would be no issues. Since then, we have allowed them to play on the floor (not in cages as we were told to keep the location neutral to begin with) and now some time in the playpen (a separate run and not part of the main ‘cage’). However, although Wicket is not biting or being violent, he just will not leave Bailey alone and is constantly mounting him. When they are together it goes on and on and Bailey squeals and tries to run away. When we separate them, Bailey seems happier but Wicket then starts squealing and becomes very agitated wanting to get back to the playpen (where Bailey has been sleeping so far as we didn’t want to rush him into the cage until we were happy that the two of them could get along. Does anyone have any tips on how to help things along or any ideas how long it will last? We are reading some conflicting advice, some say that two new pigs should be introduced gradually and for short periods, others say it is best to let their behaviour play out as constantly separating them will just make things worse! (Which makes a lot of sense but we feel so bad for poor, timid Bailey and also our poor neighbours with all the squealing!) I really want this to work out and welcome and advice!
Daisy
 
@Wiebke @PigglePuggle @Lady Kelly

these members, when online, will definitly point you in the right direction. There are more members but i cant think right now.

Welcome to the forum by the way👍

My advice is dont keep introducing and splitting up, thats a big no, everyone here will tell you this. And two boars need alot of space. I think minimum would be a 140cm in length cage by about 60cm.
 
The squeals may sound painful but are likely a sign of submission. The humping and mounting can go on for quite a while - horrific for us! If blood isn’t drawn, and it doesn’t appear like the badgering is getting the piggy down, you just have to leave them to it unfortunately.

As @SkyPipDotBernie said, you can’t keep separating and re introducing. Leave them in the neutral area and if they’re ok then you can move them to a fully cleaned out cage - no scents (Wicket’s) should remain.

I’d go 150cm+ for cage size. The more the better for boys. They’re so territorial 🙄 also be warned, humping and mounting may occur on occasion even after the hierarchy has been decided. Another thing to note, when dealing with them, always deal with Wicket first.

Good luck 🙂
 
Please have a good read of these guides before trying the boys together again so that you are fully prepared. You will need to put time aside as splitting them regularly means they constantly have to start from square one every time they are reintroduced and will cause them stress.
Introducing And Re-introducing Guinea Pigs
Bonding: Illustrated Dominance Behaviours And Dynamics
Boars: A guide to successful companionship.
Boars: Teenage, Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?

Your boys are still in their teenage stage so hormones are high and might make bonding a more tense experience. Please do not introduce in the playpen as this is now Baileys home so is not neutral territory. Setting up an area for floor time that they can stay on for several hours would be best. Mounting and submissive squeaks are extremely normal which you will see in the above guides and can continue for several weeks while the hierarchy is settling. Our recommendation on the forum is to leave them to it unless they fight or the dominant pig bullies the other (stops them from being able to eat etc).

The guides above will give the best methods for bonding. Starting with open space and adding hideys when it seems safe to do so but these hideys need to have two exits at least so that neither pig can be cornered
 
Thank you so much for the prompt replies! Yes, the general consensus is to leave them to it until Wicket gets it out of his system so this morning I will return him to the run and let them stay there until it is all over! The main thing I suppose is that there is no biting from Wicket, I am just so surprised as he was previously the submissive pig and has such a calm, sweet nature! So shocking to see him behave like this! Good tip about dealing with Wicket first, I guess this will help to reinforce his position and make him feel more secure! Cage wise, out cage is 5ft by 2ft I believe and then run is 5ft in diameter (it is circular) but we also let our pigs have regular floor time. We are planning to move house this year and I would love to build a larger cage and perhaps expand the herd but appreciate this might not be possible when dealing with un-neutered boars as I have read that an all-male herd is extremely tricky to manage.
Please have a good read of these guides before trying the boys together again so that you are fully prepared. You will need to put time aside as splitting them regularly means they constantly have to start from square one every time they are reintroduced and will cause them stress.
Introducing And Re-introducing Guinea Pigs
Bonding: Illustrated Dominance Behaviours And Dynamics
Boars: A guide to successful companionship.
Boars: Teenage, Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?

Your boys are still in their teenage stage so hormones are high and might make bonding a more tense experience. Please do not introduce in the playpen as this is now Baileys home so is not neutral territory. Setting up an area for floor time that they can stay on for several hours would be best. Mounting and submissive squeaks are extremely normal which you will see in the above guides and can continue for several weeks while the hierarchy is settling. Our recommendation on the forum is to leave them to it unless they fight or the dominant pig bullies the other (stops them from being able to eat etc).

The guides above will give the best methods for bonding. Starting with open space and adding hideys when it seems safe to do so but these hideys need to have two exits at least so that neither pig can be cornered

Thanks again for such a prompt reply and great advice. It does seem that we were causing more harm by separating the pigs and should have left them to establish their relationship in their own way and time. Fingers crossed everything has gone really well today, they have been out together on the floor and, although Wicket is still a little too interested in Bailey’s every move and has chased him a fair bit, there is definitely a lot more calm developing. Right now they are actually both laying down and eating quite happily from the same hay tray (even though we were sure to put 2 separate ones down for them). The two seem (so far) to be a lot more vocal together than Wicket and Jones were - not just wheeking but a general soft chirping. When I first got Wicket and Jones, my friends who had previously owned Guinea Pigs said, ‘aren’t they noisy!’ To which I replied, ‘no, mine aren’t’ So perhaps this is just more normal!

I was wondering at what point it would be a good idea to move them both into the main cage?

Ps. Having read the very helpful links above I think I will be reconsidering my plans to adopt a larger herd of boars at least for a long time - if these two can form a bond and be happy then this is the least they deserve
 
The squeals may sound painful but are likely a sign of submission. The humping and mounting can go on for quite a while - horrific for us! If blood isn’t drawn, and it doesn’t appear like the badgering is getting the piggy down, you just have to leave them to it unfortunately.

As @SkyPipDotBernie said, you can’t keep separating and re introducing. Leave them in the neutral area and if they’re ok then you can move them to a fully cleaned out cage - no scents (Wicket’s) should remain.

I’d go 150cm+ for cage size. The more the better for boys. They’re so territorial 🙄 also be warned, humping and mounting may occur on occasion even after the hierarchy has been decided. Another thing to note, when dealing with them, always deal with Wicket first.

Good luck 🙂
Il remember to tag you in future 👍
 
Thank you so much for the prompt replies! Yes, the general consensus is to leave them to it until Wicket gets it out of his system so this morning I will return him to the run and let them stay there until it is all over! The main thing I suppose is that there is no biting from Wicket, I am just so surprised as he was previously the submissive pig and has such a calm, sweet nature! So shocking to see him behave like this! Good tip about dealing with Wicket first, I guess this will help to reinforce his position and make him feel more secure! Cage wise, out cage is 5ft by 2ft I believe and then run is 5ft in diameter (it is circular) but we also let our pigs have regular floor time. We are planning to move house this year and I would love to build a larger cage and perhaps expand the herd but appreciate this might not be possible when dealing with un-neutered boars as I have read that an all-male herd is extremely tricky to manage.


Thanks again for such a prompt reply and great advice. It does seem that we were causing more harm by separating the pigs and should have left them to establish their relationship in their own way and time. Fingers crossed everything has gone really well today, they have been out together on the floor and, although Wicket is still a little too interested in Bailey’s every move and has chased him a fair bit, there is definitely a lot more calm developing. Right now they are actually both laying down and eating quite happily from the same hay tray (even though we were sure to put 2 separate ones down for them). The two seem (so far) to be a lot more vocal together than Wicket and Jones were - not just wheeking but a general soft chirping. When I first got Wicket and Jones, my friends who had previously owned Guinea Pigs said, ‘aren’t they noisy!’ To which I replied, ‘no, mine aren’t’ So perhaps this is just more normal!

I was wondering at what point it would be a good idea to move them both into the main cage?

Ps. Having read the very helpful links above I think I will be reconsidering my plans to adopt a larger herd of boars at least for a long time - if these two can form a bond and be happy then this is the least they deserve

It definitely sounds like it's going well. When it seems to have calmed a bit you can move them to the cage however I would make sure you have several hours to keep an eye on them again to make sure the transition doesn't flare up any problems
 
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