Fighting

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Brockers

Junior Guinea Pig
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Hi after some advice, we have 3 boars who were apparently from same litter. We got them aged 12weeks in aug,up to now other than the occasional minor scuffle have been no issues. About a week ago one of them seemed to be singled out by the other 2, they had a pet shop adequate but seemed to me too small outdoor house but constant access to a 10mx5m run with a few escape from each other hides, they were only shut up at night and still had options to get away if need be. Yesterday I moved them into a shed for winter again a reasonable size about 6ft by 4ft with loads more hideaways than outside and also a second level but I have come to them tonight and the bullied piggie had loads of nasty scratches on his back he seems to be smaller than other two, may have lost weight and was really withdrawn. Do I separate them? They have multiple water bottles hay access and other food so not sure how else I can stop the bully boys. I would have to bring the other one inside in a small cage (we have dog, a good dog but floor access may not be great) and he would be on his own? Any advice?
 
Yes definitely separate, 3 boars are well known not to work out, they do on rare occasions. You'll need to find the single boar a friend though 👍
 
Yes defo separate ASAP. The other 2 taking him out and piggie needs protection.
There's loads threads on here about bonding pls read . .
 
SkyPipDotBernie said:
Yes definitely separate, 3 boars are well known not to work out, they do on rare occasions. You'll need to find the single boar a friend though 👍
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Hmmm we would have to partition both spaces which is doable but reduces living area. What do you think chances are of bringing one in for winter then reintroducing come spring? Is that just wishful thinking?
 
You cannot keep three boars together for the long term - the failure rate amongst boar trios is around 90%. They simply don’t work and boars need to be kept in pairs. You will not manage to get them to be reintroduced, I’m afraid. They will need to remain as a pair and a single. Ideally you would get a new friend for the single boar. In the meantime, could they live alongside each other so the single one isn’t entirely alone?

Adding More Guinea Pigs Or Merging Pairs – What Works And What Not?
A Comprehensive Guide to Guinea Pig Boars
 
David Piggie Lover said:
Yes defo separate ASAP. The other 2 taking him out and piggie needs protection.
There's loads threads on here about bonding pls read . .
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Poor little guy is currently in a largish box next to the hutch with the others until I figure out what best to do. If I section him away from them so the can see each other but not touch will that be ok until I can get him a friend? And should I wait for him to heal before I do that so he isn't week when introducing a new piggie?
 
it's sad when piggies fight. I have sows and wow they don't get on so I've done this. 20191125_170412.webp
They say Hello but can't fight
 
Brockers said:
Poor little guy is currently in a largish box next to the hutch with the others until I figure out what best to do. If I section him away from them so the can see each other but not touch will that be ok until I can get him a friend? And should I wait for him to heal before I do that so he isn't week when introducing a new piggie?
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Yes that’ll be fine for the short term. He shouldn’t be entirely alone so interaction through bars or such like is ok.It depends on the severity of his injuries - if they are bad, then getting a vet to look at them would be a good idea.

Character compatibility and mutual liking are vital when it comes to finding a new friend. Taking him boar dating at a rescue centre is the most reliable way to find a new friend. This way, your piggy chooses his own friend which can result in a much more stable bond. If you go out and just choose another piggy for him, then there is no guarantee of a successful bond. If you don’t have access to boar dating, then the link below shows you the procedure to follow to introduce him to a new friend. A plan b should always be in place in case of a failed bonding.

Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics

Alternatively, you could have him neutered and following the six weeks post op wait (to ensure he is safe and no longer fertile), he could be bonded with a sow. It would be necessary for him (and his new wife) to be housed away from your other boar pair though. Sows should ideally not be near a bonded pair of boars, as the sow pheromones could cause the boar pair to start fighting over the female (even though they aren’t in the same cage as her).
 
Thank you all for your replies it's been a great help and relief I will get building tomorrow hopefully he will not take long t heal wounds look largely superficial though they have drawn blood x who knew guinea pigs could be so violent!?
 
Brockers said:
Thank you all for your replies it's been a great help and relief I will get building tomorrow hopefully he will not take long t heal wounds look largely superficial though they have drawn blood x who knew guinea pigs could be so violent!?
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I was shocked when I tried to bond me girls and it was like watching gladiators .
 
Brockers said:
Thank you all for your replies it's been a great help and relief I will get building tomorrow hopefully he will not take long t heal wounds look largely superficial though they have drawn blood x who knew guinea pigs could be so violent!?
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They are within their teenage months (4-14 months of age) which is when the trouble usually starts. Sadly the majority of boar trios do not make it to adulthood together and have to be separated.
The other two should be ok together, but you will see dominance behaviours between them as they establish themselves as a pair. It is important that you always handle the dominant piggy first in order to respect their hierarchy.

You need to ensure that you weigh all guinea pigs weekly as a matter of routine. However, with your now single piggy, you should keep a closer check on his weight, particularly if you think he has lost weight due to the stress of the relationship with the others. Hay makes up over 80% of their diet and you cannot gauge they are eating enough by eye, so weighing the piggy is the only way to be sure he is eating what he needs.

Weight Monitoring and Management
 
Piggies&buns said:
They are within their teenage months (4-14 months of age) which is when the trouble usually starts. Sadly the majority of boar trios do not make it to adulthood together and have to be separated.
The other two should be ok together, but you will see dominance behaviours between them as they establish themselves as a pair. It is important that you always handle the dominant piggy first in order to respect their hierarchy.

You need to ensure that you weigh all guinea pigs weekly as a matter of routine. However, with your now single piggy, you should keep a closer check on his weight, particularly if you think he has lost weight due to the stress of the relationship with the others. Hay makes up over 80% of their diet and you cannot gauge they are eating enough by eye, so weighing the piggy is the only way to be sure he is eating what he needs.

Weight Monitoring and Management
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Excellent Advise
 
Brockers said:
Hmmm we would have to partition both spaces which is doable but reduces living area. What do you think chances are of bringing one in for winter then reintroducing come spring? Is that just wishful thinking?
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What space would you be left with either side? Length by width
 
Brockers said:
Thank you all for your replies it's been a great help and relief I will get building tomorrow hopefully he will not take long t heal wounds look largely superficial though they have drawn blood x who knew guinea pigs could be so violent!?
Click to expand...
They are so lovely towards us, but together, is when their wild side comes out. I've had gerbils fight, and rabbits, its nasty to see aswell
 
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