Looking to get guinea pigs for the first time!

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stephable

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Hi!

I've never had guinea pigs before but I've just relocated my rabbits to an indoor space so I have a large hutch thats currently vacant. I spoke to the rescue where I adopted one of my bunnies (they also have piggies) and they said because guinea pigs can't get the same diseases are rabbits the hutch would probably be ideal for them!

My question is, how many should I get? I'll be looking to get a same-sex herd and would love for them to have a nice little family. I've attached pictures of the hutch, it's a large chicken coop type of thing and has a custom made run in the garden bed to allow for play on soil! Measurements of the hutch are 1.75m x 0.85m and the run is 1.5m x 0.75m. The tunnel is completely enclosed with rabbit mesh and there's a large hay feeder at the other end. There's also an upstairs area that includes a regular "room" and a space that would've been a nesting box for hens. They'll also be let out in my courtyard for exercise under supervision with my bunnies when I'm in the garden!

I was thinking maybe 6 could do well? Any tips? I'm planning to rescue so I think I'm more likely to get a group of males but depends who needs a home!

 
stephable said:
Hi!

I've never had guinea pigs before but I've just relocated my rabbits to an indoor space so I have a large hutch thats currently vacant. I spoke to the rescue where I adopted one of my bunnies (they also have piggies) and they said because guinea pigs can't get the same diseases are rabbits the hutch would probably be ideal for them!

My question is, how many should I get? I'll be looking to get a same-sex herd and would love for them to have a nice little family. I've attached pictures of the hutch, it's a large chicken coop type of thing and has a custom made run in the garden bed to allow for play on soil! Measurements of the hutch are 1.75m x 0.85m and the run is 1.5m x 0.75m. The tunnel is completely enclosed with rabbit mesh and there's a large hay feeder at the other end. There's also an upstairs area that includes a regular "room" and a space that would've been a nesting box for hens. They'll also be let out in my courtyard for exercise under supervision with my bunnies when I'm in the garden!

I was thinking maybe 6 could do well? Any tips? I'm planning to rescue so I think I'm more likely to get a group of males but depends who needs a home!

Click to expand...

Hi and welcome

Good that you are doing your research before getting piggies and not after!

Please be aware that guinea pigs in your country are no longer considered safe outdoors and that any good welfare standard Australian guinea pig rescues like Chuffnut Cavies in near Melbourne, Cavy Central in Sydney (whose Youtube channel you may find very helpful), Gold Coast Guinea Pig Rescue and QLD Guinea Pig Refuge in North Brisbane (rehoming as far as Northern Queensland) will no longer rehome guinea pigs to outdoor situations due to climate change. Guinea pigs are very sensitive to the extremes of climate (actually even more so than rabbits!) as well as sudden temperature swings and can die from heat stroke and cold/wet, not to mention snakes...
Hot Weather Management, Heat Strokes and Fly Strike
Cold Weather Care For Guinea Pigs

Sadly the information the rescue has given you is not quite correct. Unfortunately there are a number of diseases like bordetella or pasteurella that can be transmitted from asymptomatic rabbits to guinea pigs for which they are deadly. These are usually transmitted when in direct contact but e. cuniculi (which attacks the brain) can be transmitted indirectly via shared surfaces (like food bowls from you feeding your pets at the same time when for example the protozoan parasites fall from one dish onto another) and handling. We do see sadly quite a few cases of the latter on here from owners that are keeping both species separately and in good conditions. You will always need to deal with guinea pigs before rabbits, not keep them in the same room and use good hygiene before and after dealing with each species and their housing, food and paraphernalia.
Rabbit ear mites and fur mites can also affect guinea pigs.
Guinea Pigs And Rabbits - Why Not

Here is more basic information on guinea pigs for Wannabe Owners: Are Guinea Pigs For Me? - Wannabe Owners' Helpful Information

And here is our New Owners' information resource, which may give you a bit more realistic image of what to expect. Well kept guinea pigs are unfortunately by now means easy or cheap during the 5-7 years of an average healthy life span. Because piggies are more vocal and expressive than bunnies, they are rewarding pets; they are however also prey animals that come with their own set of prey animal instincts and are not instant animated cuddly toys - unless you want to adopt guinea pigs from a good welfare standard rescue that are already used to pet home and to human interaction. Getting Started - New Owners' Most Helpful Guides

I hope that this information helps you? The Cavy Central videos will hopefully be a good source also for country specific aspects.
 
Any decent rescue will not let you adopt a herd of boars. Boars can only live in pairs. I would suggest you start with just a pair. That hutch isn’t big enough for a pair. They need the main part (closed off area) to meet the minimum requirements.
 
Wiebke said:
Hi and welcome

Good that you are doing your research before getting piggies and not after!

Please be aware that guinea pigs in your country are no longer considered safe outdoors and that any good welfare standard Australian guinea pig rescues like Chuffnut Cavies in near Melbourne, Cavy Central in Sydney (whose Youtube channel you may find very helpful), Gold Coast Guinea Pig Rescue and QLD Guinea Pig Refuge in North Brisbane (rehoming as far as Northern Queensland) will no longer rehome guinea pigs to outdoor situations due to climate change. Guinea pigs are very sensitive to the extremes of climate (actually even more so than rabbits!) as well as sudden temperature swings and can die from heat stroke and cold/wet, not to mention snakes...
Hot Weather Management, Heat Strokes and Fly Strike
Cold Weather Care For Guinea Pigs

Sadly the information the rescue has given you is not quite correct. Unfortunately there are a number of diseases like bordetella or pasteurella that can be transmitted from asymptomatic rabbits to guinea pigs for which they are deadly. These are usually transmitted when in direct contact but e. cuniculi (which attacks the brain) can be transmitted indirectly via shared surfaces (like food bowls from you feeding your pets at the same time when for example the protozoan parasites fall from one dish onto another) and handling. We do see sadly quite a few cases of the latter on here from owners that are keeping both species separately and in good conditions. You will always need to deal with guinea pigs before rabbits, not keep them in the same room and use good hygiene before and after dealing with each species and their housing, food and paraphernalia.
Rabbit ear mites and fur mites can also affect guinea pigs.
Guinea Pigs And Rabbits - Why Not

Here is more basic information on guinea pigs for Wannabe Owners: Are Guinea Pigs For Me? - Wannabe Owners' Helpful Information

And here is our New Owners' information resource, which may give you a bit more realistic image of what to expect. Well kept guinea pigs are unfortunately by now means easy or cheap during the 5-7 years of an average healthy life span. Because piggies are more vocal and expressive than bunnies, they are rewarding pets; they are however also prey animals that come with their own set of prey animal instincts and are not instant animated cuddly toys - unless you want to adopt guinea pigs from a good welfare standard rescue that are already used to pet home and to human interaction. Getting Started - New Owners' Most Helpful Guides

I hope that this information helps you? The Cavy Central videos will hopefully be a good source also for country specific aspects.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info! I didn't know healthy rabbits could carry bacteria that would be dangerous for guinea pigs! If I get guinea pigs I'll definitely make sure to do the pigs first and be vigilant about disinfecting hands and any furniture bowls. Certainly wouldn't allow them to share the courtyard for exercise knowing that.

I live in quite a temperate area and on particularly hot or cold days I bring all my animals inside, I am aware of temperature sensitivity and have been doing the same for my rabbit up until he moved indoors. I always make sure to protect the hutch from sun and give frozen water bottles on warm days. I've had a look at the info you linked so I'd definitely bring them in at cooler temps than I did with the rabbit since they're more sensitive. I also protect my hutch with flyscreen to keep pests to a minimum.

I'm absolutely aware that they will take work/vet care etc. I've been managing a chronic health condition in my bunny for years and have a fantastic small animal vet nearby who I know very well which is awesome.

Does this sound ok?
 
Siikibam said:
Any decent rescue will not let you adopt a herd of boars. Boars can only live in pairs. I would suggest you start with just a pair. That hutch isn’t big enough for a pair. They need the main part (closed off area) to meet the minimum requirements.
Click to expand...

So if I were to get a herd it should be females? I've also heard that a desexed male and a few females is a good make up for a group? I actually looked up the space requirements and the humane society recommends 13 sq feet min for 4 pigs, my space (just the bottom of the hutch) is 16 sq feet. I had the original numbers in meters so that might have caused the confusion?
 
stephable said:
So if I were to get a herd it should be females? I've also heard that a desexed male and a few females is a good make up for a group? I actually looked up the space requirements and the humane society recommends 13 sq feet min for 4 pigs, my space (just the bottom of the hutch) is 16 sq feet. I had the original numbers in meters so that might have caused the confusion?
Click to expand...

A herd must be sows either with or without a neutered boar. Ensure any area they get locked into meets size requirements on a single level. Piggies are ground roaming creatures and prefer to live in a large flat surface.

As a rabbit (I have three rabbits) and piggy (two piggies) owner, I exercise strict caution. Piggies are always dealt with first, their items (food bowls, etc) are never anywhere near each other, separate cleaning equipment, and they never share an air space.
 
Welcome to the Forum.
It really is fantastic that you are doing your research now.

What I would be wary of is the steep ramp in the photo of your hutch.
Guinea pigs are not climbers and are nowhere near as agile as rabbits (I also have both).
The ramp looks dangerously steep for guinea pigs, which may result in them not being able to use it and thus restricting the space they have available to them.

To be honest there also isn't a lot of shelter/cover for them - maybe this is another part of the enclosure?
But every guinea pig will need their own house/hide as they do not naturally cuddle up together like rabbits, so you need to take this into account too.

Basically when calculating space you need to count the one main (flat) area - other parts joined on by ramps don't count as they may not be used.
Our cage size guide might help.

Cage Size Guide
 
:agr:

stephable said:
So if I were to get a herd it should be females? I've also heard that a desexed male and a few females is a good make up for a group? I actually looked up the space requirements and the humane society recommends 13 sq feet min for 4 pigs, my space (just the bottom of the hutch) is 16 sq feet. I had the original numbers in meters so that might have caused the confusion?
Click to expand...
A quarter would need 2x6 which is 14 sq feet.

The bottom part of the hutch being 16sq feet is great. But the main housing part is what needs to meet the minimum space requirements. The bit where they’re closed in - upstairs.

I’ve looked at the photo again and it appears that it’s surrounded by a playpen of some sort. So another animal could get in. Or is it all surrounded by chicken wire etc?
 
:agr: on the cage size requirement for a quartet (210cm x 60cm/a 2x6 C&C/7ft x 2ft (14 sq ft)). But do also bear in mind that its sometimes best to put less piggies in a bigger space than try to fit as many as you can in just because the space meets requirements.

So, is the run in the picture just for their daytime exercise area? The size of it makes it only big enough for two piggies (its the equivalent of a 4x2 c&c cage which is suitable for two sows (a 4x2 c&c measures 150cm x 77cm).
What is the cage you intend them to live in permanently?
As Swissgreys has said, the ramp in the picture is not appropriate for piggies - its far too steep with no grip. Guinea Pigs dont climb so using that is going to be difficult for them.
 
Piggies&buns said:
:agr: on the cage size requirement for a quartet (210cm x 60cm/a 2x6 C&C/7ft x 2ft (14 sq ft)). But do also bear in mind that its sometimes best to put less piggies in a bigger space than try to fit as many as you can in just because the space meets requirements.

So, is the run in the picture just for their daytime exercise area? The size of it makes it only big enough for two piggies (its the equivalent of a 4x2 c&c cage which is suitable for two sows (a 4x2 c&c measures 150cm x 77cm).
What is the cage you intend them to live in permanently?
As Swissgreys has said, the ramp in the picture is not appropriate for piggies - its far too steep with no grip. Guinea Pigs dont climb so using that is going to be difficult for them.
Click to expand...
The run and hutch are perminantly attached via that tunnel, I'll definitely look into the ramp steepness to make it appropriate before getting any animals in there! The space they would perminantly be in would be the entire hutch and run, the whole thing is enclosed. For supervised exercise I have a courtyard space.
 
Siikibam said:
:agr:


A quarter would need 2x6 which is 14 sq feet.

The bottom part of the hutch being 16sq feet is great. But the main housing part is what needs to meet the minimum space requirements. The bit where they’re closed in - upstairs.

I’ve looked at the photo again and it appears that it’s surrounded by a playpen of some sort. So another animal could get in. Or is it all surrounded by chicken wire etc?
Click to expand...

They would never be closed in upstairs, the entire hutch is available at all times. The playpen is from an old photo when the run was not attached so I was trying to give the bunny more exercise! It's still there to use but would never be used without supervision!
 
Swissgreys said:
Welcome to the Forum.
It really is fantastic that you are doing your research now.

What I would be wary of is the steep ramp in the photo of your hutch.
Guinea pigs are not climbers and are nowhere near as agile as rabbits (I also have both).
The ramp looks dangerously steep for guinea pigs, which may result in them not being able to use it and thus restricting the space they have available to them.

To be honest there also isn't a lot of shelter/cover for them - maybe this is another part of the enclosure?
But every guinea pig will need their own house/hide as they do not naturally cuddle up together like rabbits, so you need to take this into account too.

Basically when calculating space you need to count the one main (flat) area - other parts joined on by ramps don't count as they may not be used.
Our cage size guide might help.

Cage Size Guide
Click to expand...

Thanks :) For the ramp, would you recommend putting fleece (or something else) on it for grip? Is there a guide for what angle would be ok for them?

The run area and hutch are currently empty as my bunny moved inside so there isn't much shelter out there now but I do have huts and tunnels, they'll just need to be cleaned before being put back out! I also have an umbrella that I put over the run on sunny days. I'm also planning to get some more piggy sized shelter before bringing in any animals, my bunny is a nethie so a lot of the things I have are an ok size but it never hurts to get more!

With a main part of 16sq feet I was thinking I might get 3 females? Does that sound ok?
 
With the hutch, only the ground level counts. That upper level of the hutch looks too small. The ramp there is also too high and too steep as well as the one in the run. Piggies wouldn’t use it. It needs to have the sides covered and be much less of a gradient but with there not being much ground space in the run then I don’t think you’ll get the gradient on that ramp shallow enough . the hutch as you say measures 175 x 85, which works out to almost 16 sq ft so that is big enough for three. The run individually isn’t really big enough for three.
so you wouldn’t be shutting them into the hutch at night for safety purposes? that would seriously worry me! As the run is on soil, are there any wildlife in your area that could burrow underneath the run?

The problem with trios is than an outsider situation can occur and one piggy gets left out. There are plenty of sows trios that do work though but the outsider situation is something to bear in mind.
I would put something more substantial than fleece on it Given it is outside. How would you keep it dry? The gradient has to be very shallow - the guide I’m linking in below says that for every 5cm in height, you need to go out 16cm.
Ramps in Cages
 
Is there anything around the hutch to make it more secure? Especially the run part of it? And what would you put in the base of the other run where the soil it? And, as asked above, what would you when it rains?
 
So I did some measuring and maths and my ramp is actually less than a 30 degree angle so I think with the addition of some grippy material is should be ok! I'm thinking of going with carpet door mat material, it's relatively soft but has good grip. I'm thinking I might add a roof to the tunnel for if it rains, haven't totally planned that yet.

The internal ramp I'm also planning to add grip to but I'm also thinking I might put a little hut under the end of it to make the angle less steep! Also planning to add sides to it for extra comfort and safety.Saw some cool ideas in the info you guys linked :)

The run has a fence behind it, a cinderblock garden wall in front and to the left and I have bricks and rocks burried to the right so avoid digging in or digging out. I am thinking of installing some kind of door at the entrance to the tunnel to restrict access at night to lower the risk even more.

Also should I go with either 2 or 4 to avoid social issues? I was thinking I could start with 2 females and maybe at some point add another 2 females or a desexed male and a female?
 
Having them in even numbers works well. Do the rescue centre near you have bonded quartets? I know they dont come up often here, bonded pairs are much easier to find.
While sows are wired to live in herds, it doesn’t mean every bonded pair will accept newcomers. If you were to get two and then add another two, doing so via dating is safest if at all possible, so you can be sure yours accept other piggies before bringing them home. Otherwise, you will need a plan b and separate cages/runs for the other pair if bonding yourself doesn’t work. There is never a guarantee that a bonding will work out.

The pen area outside the blue hutch with the wire sides, does that have a roof? I don’t know what wild animals you have in your area, or even pet cats coming into your garden, but I personally would not leave them with access outside of the blue hutch overnight. If they are to be locked into the blue hutch for their own safety and only allowed out into the run area when you are there to supervise them, then it is the measurements of the blue hutch itself which determine how many piggies you can have.

Adding More Guinea Pigs Or Merging Pairs – What Works And What Not?
 
Piggies&buns said:
Having them in even numbers works well. Do the rescue centre near you have bonded quartets? I know they dont come up often here, bonded pairs are much easier to find.
While sows are wired to live in herds, it doesn’t mean every bonded pair will accept newcomers. If you were to get two and then add another two, doing so via dating is safest if at all possible, so you can be sure yours accept other piggies before bringing them home. Otherwise, you will need a plan b and separate cages/runs for the other pair if bonding yourself doesn’t work. There is never a guarantee that a bonding will work out.

The pen area outside the blue hutch with the wire sides, does that have a roof? I don’t know what wild animals you have in your area, or even pet cats coming into your garden, but I personally would not leave them with access outside of the blue hutch overnight. If they are to be locked into the blue hutch for their own safety and only allowed out into the run area when you are there to supervise them, then it is the measurements of the blue hutch itself which determine how many piggies you can have.

Adding More Guinea Pigs Or Merging Pairs – What Works And What Not?
Click to expand...

I'm now thinking I might get a pair of boars, there's lots that need homes and I know a rescue that adopts them out in pairs. Happy to give up my dream of a little herd to give a home to animals that need it!

The pen out the front of the hutch doesn't have a roof but it's never used unless supervised. Cats are our biggest pests here so I make sure to have the animals enclosed whenever I'm not able to watch them. I'm also thinking of getting some cat deterents for my fence, my courtyard is quite small with good fencing so if they can't go over they wont be able to get in. The 16sq feet is the measurement for the floor space in the blue hutch! But more is always better so I think 2 boars could enjoy it as their mansion :)
 
I’m sorry I’m still confused! Is the run that’s attached to the hutch secured in any way? As in, is there a fence/wire of some sort around it that would stop predators being able to get in?

Would they have access to the run area of the hutch 24/7? I don’t feel that would be secure enough. And I don’t know if any decent rescue would let you rehome boars to that hutch.

I would seriously consider getting a bigger hutch that you can close them in at night. You should also speak to the rescue and e what their housing requirements are.
 
Siikibam said:
I’m sorry I’m still confused! Is the run that’s attached to the hutch secured in any way? As in, is there a fence/wire of some sort around it that would stop predators being able to get in?

Would they have access to the run area of the hutch 24/7? I don’t feel that would be secure enough. And I don’t know if any decent rescue would let you rehome boars to that hutch.

I would seriously consider getting a bigger hutch that you can close them in at night. You should also speak to the rescue and e what their housing requirements are.
Click to expand...

I think @Siikibam, @stephable can you clarify as it does Seem to have changed - you originally said they would have the area as their permanent home 24/7 but now you say only access to the pen/run area when you’re there to supervise - so to my understanding now that the blue hutch is going to be their home. They will be locked inside the blue at night and when you arent there to supervise them. When you are there, you will open the door on the blue hutch (as it is on the picture) and they can then free roam the pen area outside the hutch and up the ramp and onto the 1.5m run on the soil.

So, if they are to be locked into the blue hutch, then it is that part which needs to be size requirements. A boar pair need a large space and 16 sq ft would be good for them if that is the measurement of the ground floor space only pf the blue hutch. All other areas are bonus spaces, particularly the 1.5m run on the soil. As that is joined by a ramp, it may well not be used by the piggies - particularly as the ramp looks too steep.
The upper part of the blue hutch - you have said you will cover the ramp with sides for safety which is good. I am still concerned about the gradient on it though. It is very high and very steep and piggies just won’t use it like that - not that it entirely matters because those kinds of upper levels don’t count anyway, but as ground roaming creatures, they want a large flat surface, and given the choice will prefer that over using ramps when they aren’t climbing animals. My two boars have a 36sq ft living space. I did put a loft in for a bit of variety but they used it for just a week and then didn’t bother going up there again, so I took it all down.
I personally would not be comfortable with my own piggies living in the bottom part of that coop as it doesn’t feel secure enough to me, but you and your rescue centre need to make that call. As wiebke has said, piggies in Australia aren’t considered safe outside anymore, I assume you’ve spoken to the rescue and they are happy with your set up and being outside?
 
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Hello and welcome to the forum.
It’s so great that you have joined the forum to do your research before you get guinea pigs for the first time.
I echo the concerns that others have raised about your run/hutch. But equally it sounds like you’re prepared to do right by the piggies and keep them safe so I hope you take on board the suggestions :D
2 females and a neutered boar works well. Most rescues in Australia do only re-home to indoor homes only.
I’m in Australia too, Victoria. What state are you in?
When my lot are having grass time in their secure run. I only leave them outside for about 1-2 hours. I check on them every 10 minutes. I have seen too many snakes in the horse paddocks and on my road, Foxes around and wedge-tail eagles to ever feel safe leaving them outside when I’m not around, no matter how secure I make the run. I’d never ever forgive myself if something happened.
 
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