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i have yet another piggie with mites full of scabs one has just had second injection
the other is at the vets today do you no how i can stop them getting
them again like diet suplement or baths
 
You have to go through the full course of treatment of at least three to four rounds of ivermectin every 10-14 days (injections, oral or spot on; injections being the most effective before oral and then spot on) for both of them.

Once a piggy has had mites, eggs that somehow survive in its skin can always make a comeback at times when it is stressed or the immune system is lowered from illness. There is no way of preventing mites, really, and any skin treatments/baths won't do anything. You can do a preventative once a month treatment, but it is not fool proof by any means. Personally, I prefer to treat as soon as they turn up.

PS: Once you have got mites, you need to treat all piggies living together.
 
they live separate i think the second one mille got hers from being took out of
her home cos she was being builled poor piggy
 
The only thing I can really add to Wiebke's post is:

1) Bath at the end of the full course of ivermectin. You can bath between doses, but a bath at the end of the full course is the most important to wash off the debris and any dead parasites that are still within the coat.

2) Look at your hay and bedding quality; one source of mites is the hay, another is bedding (usually traditional beddings like woodshavings).
 
my piggies have mites too but luckily my mum has ivomectin so if they get worse then that wont be a problem. i gave both of them a bath today and found 3. they have cought them from our hens who are infested with them.:(
 
Hi

In addition to the Ivemec I would also recomend an anti mite shampoo

But its not just one shampoo they have to be done every 7 days for 3 weeks to break the fleas or mites breading cycle.

The shampoo only kills active mites it has no effect on any eggs and when these hatch you have 7 days before the new fleas lay more eggs and the cycle continues.

So shampoo 1 kills all live mites, shampoo 2 kills all newly hatched mites and shampoo 3 kills anything that slipped through.

If you don't do this your piggies will always have mites and if they get into the blood supply they will damage the piggies internal organs and the next thing you find a dead piggy.

Sorry but there are 2 things you should protect your piggies from, mites and fungal infection, both of these are normally brought into the cage by the owner through their choice of bedding and feed and both can be fatal.

Sorry to be so blunt but realy there is no excuse for mite and fungal infections, the correct choice of bedding and feed eradicates both.

Regards

SGP
 
Laura-CCC4 said:
The only thing I can really add to Wiebke's post is:

1) Bath at the end of the full course of ivermectin. You can bath between doses, but a bath at the end of the full course is the most important to wash off the debris and any dead parasites that are still within the coat.

2) Look at your hay and bedding quality; one source of mites is the hay, another is bedding (usually traditional beddings like woodshavings).
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dip with ivermectin and LET THEM DRIP DRY AS TOWELING RUBS IT OFF
 
Ivermectin is not a dip though, it's a medication given in certain doses so the above doesn't apply...?
 
Sheppey_GuineaPigs said:
Sorry to be so blunt but realy there is no excuse for mite and fungal infections, the correct choice of bedding and feed eradicates both.


SGP
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I think this is maybe a bit harsh. Your advice for treating and breaking the mite cycle is sound but people shouldn't feel bad if their guinea pigs get mites or a fungal infection. Sometimes these things happen despite people's best intentions and efforts. It's important that either condition is diagnosed correctly and treated quickly. It's important that people get used to giving their guinea pigs basic health checks and taking appropriate action when there are changes/ problems.

:)
 
Sorry if I came over sounding a bit harsh

But at the end of the day mite and fungal infestations can be avoided by carful choice of bedding and feeds

Just because it is possible to treat the problem should not be seen a a green light to bring the mites, fleas & fungal spores and infest the poor unfortunate Guinea.

Just be a bit more thoughtful in your choice of feed and bedding and the problem is solved, its that easy.

And remember a missed infestation can lead to a dead Guinea and we don't want that do we?

Again sorry if I sound harsh but thats just the way that I am (I call a Shovel a Shovel) if you know what I meanrolleyes

Regards

SGP
 
Sheppey_GuineaPigs said:
Sorry if I came over sounding a bit harsh

But at the end of the day mite and fungal infestations can be avoided by carful choice of bedding and feeds

Just because it is possible to treat the problem should not be seen a a green light to bring the mites, fleas & fungal spores and infest the poor unfortunate Guinea.

Just be a bit more thoughtful in your choice of feed and bedding and the problem is solved, its that easy.

And remember a missed infestation can lead to a dead Guinea and we don't want that do we?

Again sorry if I sound harsh but thats just the way that I am (I call a Shovel a Shovel) if you know what I meanrolleyes

Regards

SGP
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No offence taken. I'm always keen to hear if people have ideas for good husbandry. What has worked for you bedding wise then? I use good quality farm hay and megazorb in the litter trays/ hay racks with readigrass/ oxbow/ burns oat hay/ timothy hay to mix in for feed as well as dry food and fresh veg. My guinea pigs have washable incontinence pads and fleece. I change all the hay every day and clean poops and do a complete bedding change/ wash every 3 days. My pigs have had one bought of mites since December (when I got them) which I put down to particular batch of hay and they were treated with ivermectin injections and baths.
I'm only asking because I haven't read anywhere of a bedding combination that would reduce the risk of mites/ fungal completely. I also thought that there was a risk of fungal due to weather conditions (creating ideal fungal conditions on grass) for outdoor pigs (mine are indoor so it's only what I've read).
I'd appreciate your opinions.

Sharon. :)
 
Sorry - I DO see where you're coming from....I used to think similarly.... BUT....NO, REGRETTABLY THESE TYPES OF INFECTIONS CAN:T BE AVOIDED!..This is from someone who has kept piggies for 20 yrs, and has always practised extremely good husbandry (and is a microbiologist so knows a lot about secondary spread,fungal etc etc) ) - I have just had to go through the full monty disnfection regime for ear mites today [*]for the first time ever[/*]....and it would appear my piggies contracted it from lawn grass which a fox/rat/badger/dog/cat with said infection has contaminated within the space of 24-48 hrs

And 2 years ago I had my very first case of ringworm (in a young juvenile) and had to go through similar....with un-known source....ANOTHER SHOCK!

I've now come to realise that First cases are completely understandeable and forgiveable - as long as the right steps are taken (decontaminating a whole colony PROPERLY is a lot of hard work)..such that it does;t repeat....

x
 
For me its ReadiGrass and Oxbow Timothy hay, both of these are known to be free of mites and fungal spores.

I don't have a garden so they never go out onto the grass which again is a known contaminent.

All my Piggies are checked monthly for mites and fungal with the aid of a microscope. Although since moving to the above feed & bedding no infestations have been found, so they are bathed with normal Baby Shampoo. If something was found atthe monthly check I would then know which type of shampoo to use ie Anti-Fungal or Anti-Mite. They are also routinely every 3 months given Ivemec and Panacure orally on a just in case basis.

Regards

SGP
 
i started this post my piggy has had injection one and back to vets in ten
days so she will be ok the treatment is cheaper then i thought thanks for info
;)
 
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