New owner with neglected and traumatized Guinea pigs and I don’t know what to do

[Calle]

Not sure if this is in the right forum section.
I currently have two guinea pigs I took from my cousin as her mom won’t be able to care for them since her mom is now pregnant and mom was the major care taker when she is out of state 8 out of 12 months living with her mom, her youngest kids however enjoyed thier pigs.
Now if I’m being honest I have never liked guinea pigs just they no like me I no like them kinda thing (thier eyes bothered me so much) but that doesn’t mean I won’t take good care of them.
So original I got one guinea pig for said cousin as hers died and a nice old man had one he needed to rehome so I got this guinea pig named skittles for her. Now my cousins mom heard they die from lonely ness and got a second male named rainbow and they both lived most of the time in a 24 by 24 inch cage and every few days she let them run around the bedroom becuz if they were together for more then one day they would fight. Didn’t know this till after I got them.
My cousins mom bless her heart is a sweet kind woman but she only took care of them in the since of bag food and water, nothing else and she changed the cotton bedding once a week.
When I got them they had over grown nails
Bumble foot beginning to start(red and swollen paws) teeth a bit over grown I believe and thier very skittish. At first I thought thier circling and clicking at each other was play but after talking to my local and probably best in the country pet store I learned a lot of thier behavior was aggressive. That’s when I learned of the aggressive fighting and one time it apparently caused bleeding.
So since getting them I have gotten them both thier own two level hutches, vitamin c supplements, I give them fresh vegetables and hay, a employee at the pet store said he would help me file their teeth and nails if I bring them in(trying to heal thier feet first), I change thier bedding ever day and put down fleece bedding for them.
Today tho I gave them straw bedding but I keep getting mix response online about whether to use it or not, it dangerous?
Also one of them constantly pees like twices as much as the other and just soaks thier entire bedding and he doesn’t move from his hiding box section no matter what I do to get him out I don’t know if this is odd or normal as I am unable to go to a vet. Not financially wise but the only vet that sees guinea pigs is 3-4 hours away and I have called 57 vets in my area but they only take cats and dogs or huge farm animals.
if anyone has any ideas on how to care for bumblefoot with out vet interaction I would be grateful no matter how clean I keep the cage it won’t seem to stop the swelling

Or just any suggestions on how to care for these guys, I don’t like to constantly google things as that information is so mixed and overall confuses me as it either gives me the minimum basics or a lot of info that kinda goes against the basics or just to many things going on at once. I usually have friends I could ask but guinea pigs are the one pet no one I know has or has cared for so I’m at lost with them.
Also I know they have been traumatized a bit by lil kids chasing and probably being to ruff with them and skittles (who lived in a tiny 24/24 cage thier first year in solitary with no real communication to people) was already being introduced to people and then he got that so he isn’t really trusting to me or anyone and it took 2 months before he sniffed my hand on his own.
Rainbow is less skittish and I can interywith once u start petting him he seems to just melt into affection but is terrified when u first reach to him. I honestly don’t know how to get them to trust me and I’ve spent a 30 mins holding my hand to them before and they just did not care for it. So really I want to know if they seem unredeemable.
I’ve tried putting them in a outside play pen that’s pretty big and they would not walk around and spent 6 hours in one spot so I don’t know what to do, they won’t eat treats, can’t be baited to move around. Should I give up on this? Rainbow won’t even leave his den in his hutch. I find harder to care for them with out being able to touch them go into thier cage with out them freaking out and then I feel bad and back off since I don’t want to hurt them.
A long post I know but I really could use advice on this from people with experience I’m at my ropes end with these guys and I have many other animals in need of my care I can’t keep blindly trying to fix and change things in attempts that may or may not work, I don’t mind caring for them but if u don’t know what your doing or what your doing isn’t helping it’s very frustrating. Also can they get depressed? becuz I think they have depression

 

[Betsy]

How long have you had your piggies for? What size are their current cages? Can they see each other? Sorry for all the questions but we just need a few answers to get a clearer picture.

 

[Siikibam]

Well done on taking them on. I would book an appointment with the vet for a general check. They can then help you with nail trimming and treatment for bumblefoot if needed.

In terms of their being skittish, that is entirely normal. How long have you had them for? They can take months, weeks or years to settle in so do be aware of that. The one in the house may never like being held or touched, you just have to be patient and see.

Are their hutches facing each other and they can still interact through the grids? If not, they really need that. They need interaction of some sort even if they can’t live together.

Please do not take them for teeth filing at the pet shop. This should be done by an experienced vet else things could go wrong. If you’ve had them for a week, you will need to start weighing them weekly. How old are they? If you said, I’m sorry I skimmed a little. Have a read of the guides I’m linking below and also check the vet locator to see if there are any others nearer you that are recommended.
New Owners' Most Helpful How-To Guides and Information
Who is the Boss - Your Guinea Pig or You?
How To Pick Up And Weigh Your Guinea Pigs Safely
Understanding Prey Animal Instincts, Guinea Pig Whispering and Cuddling Tips
How Do I Settle Shy New Guinea Pigs?
Long Term Balanced General And Special Needs Guinea Pig Diets
Guinea Lynx :: GL's Vet List

 

[HeatherW]

Hello and welcome to the forum!

Don't take their lack of willingness to interact with you as irredeemable trauma. Guinea pigs are prey animals and, particularly if they haven't been handled much, they will naturally keep away from you. I've had one of my guineas for nearly 9 months and I'm still seeing her grow in confidence. For example, she will now let me get closer with the camera or she will let me pet her on the head sometimes. It took 6 months for one of my other piglets to start taking food from my hand through the bars! Guineas are naturally skittish and it will take a while for them to trust you and learn that you bring them nice food!

 

[Calle]

How long have you had your piggies for? What size are their current cages? Can they see each other? Sorry for all the questions but we just need a few answers to get a clearer picture.

I’ve had them in my care for about 3-4 months. They are full grown, skittles is short hair and smaller compared to rainbow who is long hair and rather large. They where in a 24/24 inch wire cage but I got them each thier own two level rabbit hutches so they have a up and down stairs, they can not see each other as the become aggressive and paranoid(or I think they seem paranoid) they are on two different walls on my porch

 

[Wiebke]

Hi!

Rehabilitating traumatised piggies is not a quick job but takes time. Being patient, even more patient, and persistent is key.

In terms of interaction, please read the advice and practical tips about how guinea pig prey animal instincts work, how you can avoid behaving like a predator but use their own social interactive behaviours to invite them into your herd and to tell them that you love them in their own social language. This - in my own experience - will get you there more quickly. Guinea pig whispering techniques also help you to reassure your piggies while medicating etc. Picture any activity with them in your mind so they know that it is not just random violence. Always picture how carefully and gently you handle them and how precious they are to you.

Here is the link to the relevant guides, which you may find very helpful: Settling In And Making Friends With Guinea Pigs - A Guide

Make small step with introducing more enrichment into their lives, like placing soft hay into a paper bag or creating places they can hide and feel safe. See what they like and respond to and then take it from there. Be there and watch from a little distance; far enough that they will come out but still there and gentle keeping up your flow of soft chatter so they learn to connect you with pleasurable things but at the same time pressure-free activities.

Enrichment Ideas for Guinea Pigs

 

[Calle]

Well done on taking them on. I would book an appointment with the vet for a general check. They can then help you with nail trimming and treatment for bumblefoot if needed.

In terms of their being skittish, that is entirely normal. How long have you had them for? They can take months, weeks or years to settle in so do be aware of that. The one in the house may never like being held or touched, you just have to be patient and see.

Are their hutches facing each other and they can still interact through the grids? If not, they really need that. They need interaction of some sort even if they can’t live together.

Please do not take them for teeth filing at the pet shop. This should be done by an experienced vet else things could go wrong. If you’ve had them for a week, you will need to start weighing them weekly. How old are they? If you said, I’m sorry I skimmed a little. Have a read of the guides I’m linking below and also check the vet locator to see if there are any others nearer you that are recommended.
New Owners' Most Helpful How-To Guides and Information
Who is the Boss - Your Guinea Pig or You?
How To Pick Up And Weigh Your Guinea Pigs Safely
Understanding Prey Animal Instincts, Guinea Pig Whispering and Cuddling Tips
How Do I Settle Shy New Guinea Pigs?
Long Term Balanced General And Special Needs Guinea Pig Diets
Guinea Lynx :: GL's Vet List

I unfortunately don’t have a vet near me that will look at guinea pigs that isn’t three hours away. The guy at the pet shop is qualified to take care of animals like that, he does a lot of rescue, voluntary work, and runs animal programs for small animal types In our area, I believe the only thing he can’t do is pet surgery, but I assure you he is a well experienced and academically qualified he only works at the pet store about 4 days week and I think that’s only to take care of the small animals in the back as well as the birds upfront. My pet store is very obsessed with the care of the animals and blunt on refusing people pets if they don’t think they have set up enough (happened to me and a friend once)but will hold a animal for u (for free) to give u time to set up. They have also given me free meds for animals using things they had “already used” so it’s written off. Thier a good pet store, but I understand the risk as the pet store next to them is a pet mill.
ive had them 3 months, they are both inside and not facing each other as they fight aggressively and apparently when they were with my cousin fought and drew blood they are about 2-3 years old I believe

 

[Calle]

Wanting to add to this if anyone knows if straw bedding is ok? They seem to like it, and if thier is certain hay they can and can’t eat. I’ve been giving them pet store bought but I’ve started switching to the feeding hay squares/barrels I get from my feed store as I already have to buy in bulk thier anyways I’ve been giving them that but I read they need only green hay?

 

[Siikibam]

They need to be able to interact so need to face each other. They can’t fight if they’re in separate hutches. Straw bedding isn’t recommended for them. It’s sharp and could cause injury and also has no nutrition. You could use meadow hay on top of disposable bedding.

I really wouldn’t have my piggies seen by someone that’s not a vet, even if they’re qualified to care for them. It is your choice but I think you need to go in eyes open. The same goes for treating anything. It’s better they’re seen by an experienced vet for diagnosis and vet grade meds. I understand the difficulty with a vet so far away though. Sorry.

ETA did you contact the vets on the list I linked to above?

 

[Calle]

They need to be able to interact so need to face each other. They can’t fight if they’re in separate hutches. Straw bedding isn’t recommended for them. It’s sharp and could cause injury and also has no nutrition. You could use meadow hay on top of disposable bedding.

I really wouldn’t have my piggies seen by someone that’s not a vet, even if they’re qualified to care for them. It is your choice but I think you need to go in eyes open. The same goes for treating anything. It’s better they’re seen by an experienced vet for diagnosis and vet grade meds. I understand the difficulty with a vet so far away though. Sorry.

ETA did you contact the vets on the list I linked to above?

I can try to move them across from each other
I wasn’t planning on feeding them the straw i just wanted them to have something to play in and hide under. I shake out the straw to get the corn cobs and sticks out. Is it really that bad? If it is I’ll move it but they seem really to like it and i feel bad taking away something skittles is playing in. Wouldn’t they eat the bedding if it has hay in it? what kind of disposable bedding? The only thing I really use for my pets that don’t use straw bedding is paper bedding for my rats and mice. Wouldn’t they go thru paper bedding really fast tho?

 

[Wiebke]

Wanting to add to this if anyone knows if straw bedding is ok? They seem to like it, and if thier is certain hay they can and can’t eat. I’ve been giving them pet store bought but I’ve started switching to the feeding hay squares/barrels I get from my feed store as I already have to buy in bulk thier anyways I’ve been giving them that but I read they need only green hay?

Hi!

Straw (which is grain stalks) is a big no no with guinea pigs. It should not be part of their diet, which is based on unlimited grass hay which they have evolved on and for which their body is laid out and the rough stalks put them at even higher risk of eye pokes, considering how close to the ground piggies are.

Please have a read through our comprehensive diet guide. A good grass hay based diet can add 1-2 years to a normal healthy life span and take it from the lower end to the upper and beyond. Our diet guide will take you in practical detail through all food groups and their role in the diet as well as exact feeding tips. We cannot give you all the information in just one post, especially as we are all doing this for free in our free time. For this purpose we have written our easy to follow step-by-step guides. Please take the time to read them. You will find them very helpful!
Here is the link: Long Term Balanced General And Special Needs Guinea Pig Diets

 

[Free Ranger]

Just a note to add about eye-pokes with the straw... sometimes in this country you even see bags of perfectly edible hay which is actually labelled 'for rabbits' as the supplier is so worried that pigs will poke eyes on the longer stems! Some types of hay are soft and fluffy... these are good for burrowing under or stuffing in a cardboard box for them to climb into. Straw isn't really absorbent anyway - it jut raises piggy up off whatever is underneath to soak up the pee.

Put something absorbent under the fleece like 'puppy pads' (but be careful they are not exposed as some pigs will chew them!) but if you have one that sits firmly in one place at least there's only one bit to change out. Celebrate having a piggy that pees... much less likely to get bladder trouble! (I use a fleece/zorb/fleece sandwich but that's a future conversation! I think I've seen that people in the states can use 'u-haul' blankets? But I'm not sure whet these are.) You can get wood hideys/toys that are safe to chew at for overgrown incisors - the teeth grow all the time which is why they should chew hay day and night to keep them in check. Overgrown incisors can prevent proper chewing even though these teeth are not used for chewing themselves. Weight your piggies on kitchen scales and repeat every week to check they are not losing weight - this will reassure you that they are getting all the food they need. My mature boars have all been at least 1.2kg, my current hefty boy George is 1.4 but he should really run round a bit more! I've seen US pigs can be a bit heavier - but here in the UK we are told everything is bigger in America!

It's a learning curve but the pigs are already benefitting from getting plenty of hay and not feeling they have to fight all the time. This forum is chock full of great advice in the guides so have a good read - some advice is different in different countries and some advice will change over time so bear that in mind as some things which used to be thought a good idea are no longer recommended. They will come round but it will take time. A routine really helps them learn what to expect and when - so when they get used to your routine they'll come out of themselves a bit more. Anything new will totally freak them at the minute... if you go out they don't know whether you will come back and give them more veggies or not, if they go outside they don't think, "great, it's playtime, lets run around for a bit before going back to our safe little houses" they just think, "and now we're somewhere else new and scary instead... are we going to die here?" In fact even comfortable piggies think, "Is this it!" quite a lot because they are prey animals so they are always worried about being eaten! They don't know if any minute they'll be stuck back in together, or if a dog might appear, or a hawk attack, or even another strange piggy appear to take their food, or if a little kid will grab them, or if their sore, swollen feet will fail them and they won't be able to run away. Kindness and understanding are what they need x

Try and get the bumblefoot sorted because if there are open wounds and sores on the bottom of the feet bacteria can get in and the whole foot/leg can swell. It can take a bit of time (and they don't help by cheerfully sitting in their own toiletings) but it is doable. Mild bumbles can be treated by regular soaking with Epsom Salts and maybe applying a suitable cream after, but if infection has become established oral antibiotics might be needed and it will worsen while you are trying to treat by soaking/cream. Also please don't let them drink any of the salt solution - you'll have a very messy bout of runny bum as it's a laxative I found out the hard way with my sow! She was fine after a day or so but the last thing you need is more worry! That pet shop guy sounds like a good first port of call - I understand the distance issue for vets and I understand that if you could get to one you'd be straight there. I don't know whether covid has enabled any video consultations to start up over there... we've been able to start sending lockdown phone pics of body parts to the doctor rather than appear in person (well, I mean we had an infected finger... I don't know what pics other people might have sent!) Well done on trying your best for these little guys

 

[Calle]

Just a note to add about eye-pokes with the straw... sometimes in this country you even see bags of perfectly edible hay which is actually labelled 'for rabbits' as the supplier is so worried that pigs will poke eyes on the longer stems! Some types of hay are soft and fluffy... these are good for burrowing under or stuffing in a cardboard box for them to climb into. Straw isn't really absorbent anyway - it jut raises piggy up off whatever is underneath to soak up the pee.

Put something absorbent under the fleece like 'puppy pads' (but be careful they are not exposed as some pigs will chew them!) but if you have one that sits firmly in one place at least there's only one bit to change out. Celebrate having a piggy that pees... much less likely to get bladder trouble! (I use a fleece/zorb/fleece sandwich but that's a future conversation! I think I've seen that people in the states can use 'u-haul' blankets? But I'm not sure whet these are.) You can get wood hideys/toys that are safe to chew at for overgrown incisors - the teeth grow all the time which is why they should chew hay day and night to keep them in check. Overgrown incisors can prevent proper chewing even though these teeth are not used for chewing themselves. Weight your piggies on kitchen scales and repeat every week to check they are not losing weight - this will reassure you that they are getting all the food they need. My mature boars have all been at least 1.2kg, my current hefty boy George is 1.4 but he should really run round a bit more! I've seen US pigs can be a bit heavier - but here in the UK we are told everything is bigger in America!

It's a learning curve but the pigs are already benefitting from getting plenty of hay and not feeling they have to fight all the time. This forum is chock full of great advice in the guides so have a good read - some advice is different in different countries and some advice will change over time so bear that in mind as some things which used to be thought a good idea are no longer recommended. They will come round but it will take time. A routine really helps them learn what to expect and when - so when they get used to your routine they'll come out of themselves a bit more. Anything new will totally freak them at the minute... if you go out they don't know whether you will come back and give them more veggies or not, if they go outside they don't think, "great, it's playtime, lets run around for a bit before going back to our safe little houses" they just think, "and now we're somewhere else new and scary instead... are we going to die here?" In fact even comfortable piggies think, "Is this it!" quite a lot because they are prey animals so they are always worried about being eaten! They don't know if any minute they'll be stuck back in together, or if a dog might appear, or a hawk attack, or even another strange piggy appear to take their food, or if a little kid will grab them, or if their sore, swollen feet will fail them and they won't be able to run away. Kindness and understanding are what they need x

Try and get the bumblefoot sorted because if there are open wounds and sores on the bottom of the feet bacteria can get in and the whole foot/leg can swell. It can take a bit of time (and they don't help by cheerfully sitting in their own toiletings) but it is doable. Mild bumbles can be treated by regular soaking with Epsom Salts and maybe applying a suitable cream after, but if infection has become established oral antibiotics might be needed and it will worsen while you are trying to treat by soaking/cream. Also please don't let them drink any of the salt solution - you'll have a very messy bout of runny bum as it's a laxative I found out the hard way with my sow! She was fine after a day or so but the last thing you need is more worry! That pet shop guy sounds like a good first port of call - I understand the distance issue for vets and I understand that if you could get to one you'd be straight there. I don't know whether covid has enabled any video consultations to start up over there... we've been able to start sending lockdown phone pics of body parts to the doctor rather than appear in person (well, I mean we had an infected finger... I don't know what pics other people might have sent!) Well done on trying your best for these little guys

Sir or madam I could hug you this is great advice
That puppy pad thing sounds genius.
Also a u-haul is a giant walk in box truck used for moving that people rent in the states for moving homes. The blankets are thick material used to prevent furniture or glass things like mirrors from getting broken or scratched. And wouldnt u know it my family owns a u-haul lot! My family has many of those blankets as we use them as insulation for our barns and cat houses. But I will be looking into how they can be used for guinea pigs!
I will definitely look into the epsom salt bath. The rest was also very helpful advice thank you so much! I will try to get on a normal routine for them as I’ll admit I’ve been a bit hectic with Thiers but I’ll sort it out. Thanks again!

 

[Free Ranger]

And wouldnt u know it my family owns a u-haul lot!

Well that's one thing to try then! Put the fleece over the top - pee passes straight through the fleece but it needs to be absorbed by something underneath or it will just soak straight back up again. The only thing I don't know is how easy those u-haul blankets are to wash... if they are very thick you might have to cut them into smaller sections to fit in your washing machine.

My family has many of those blankets as we use them as insulation for our barns and cat houses.

You probably mean actual cats... I did a bit of a double-take when I saw 'Cat Houses'. I thought in America that was something quite different! But even if you don't mean actual cats it's still nice of you to insulate them!