Laura-CCC4
Senior Guinea Pig
Originally written for the UKPCC newsletter. Copied over in the hope it answers some of the more common questions about these beddings. Slightly adapted to fit the 10,000 character limit of the forum, though it still requires two posts!
Woodshavings, CareFresh, and hay-and-newspaper aren’t for everyone. Those who have a particularly large cage may find it costs a small fortune to fill their cage. Some pigs have especially delicate respiratory tracts which are easily irritated by the dust in so- called ‘traditional’ beddings, while some pigs have other medical issues – such as pododermatitis – which make walking on shavings and hay quite painful.
‘Alternative bedding’, in other words a material or fabric bedding, is the collective term for bedding which you wouldn’t normally associate with guinea pigs. The three main runners are fleece, Vetbed, and towels. Specific information and advice on each is given with each section, and overall recommendations are included at the end of the article.
When I talk of setup costs, it means the initial cost, the one-off payment at the start. Fabric beddings are reusable, so you don’t have to continuously buy more. Most materials last at least a couple of years. It is advised you buy at least 2 full cage sets, so you don’t need to wait around for the set you just pulled out to wash and dry before you can kit the cage out again. I personally prefer having three full sets, just in case I can’t get the first set washed and dried in time for the next clean out.
Towels
Towels are not commonly used on their own. The absorbency is perfect for piggies, who tend to pee and poop wherever they please, but the surface can be damp to the touch in areas of heavier urination. However, white towels on their own are ideal for post-operative recovery. Especially in pigs who have had abdominal surgery involving a large incision and sutures, white towels show up any oozing or bleeding from the site while usually still being able to absorb the offending liquid. In cases of surgical recovery, the towels will need changing often, at least 2-3 times per day.
Regular cotton bath towels work very well for guinea pigs, though for those wanting a more decorative and themed cage, cotton beach towels work quite well!
Setup costs vary, but you can buy towels very cheap; there's no need to buy expensive ones.
Washing Towels
Summary – detergent; higher temp; no softener.
Towels should be soft, but do not use any fabric softener when you wash them -this will significantly decrease the absorbency of the material. Instead, if you have access to one, use a tumble dryer to dry and soften the towels. My own preference is to hang them on the line until they are almost dry, and then throw them into the dryer for 20 minutes. To dry straight from washing, it will take 30-60 minutes for a selection of towels to completely dry in a dryer on high heat.
I like to wash towels on a higher temperature than Vetbed or fleece, simply because towels hold a lot of moisture whereas Vetbed and fleece don’t. A 30 degree wash is sufficient to get it clean, but at least once a month, and in times of illness/surgical recovery, a 50 or 60 degree wash should ensure a deeper, more thorough clean.
Vetbed
Vetbed is available in many pet stores, and quite prominently in some pet store chains. It’s not advertised for small animals – usually it is in the dog bedding section – but it is ideal for regular piggie bedding. It usually has a stiff fabric base, with a thick, soft, fluffy layer on top. The benefits of Vetbed include the fact that all moisture wicks down to the stiff base while the top remains perfectly dry. As with towels, Vetbed is also recommended for post-surgical recovery – most Vetbed is white, so will show any stains from oozing/bleeding while keeping these leaks away from the piggies (more hygienic). Vetbed can be ordered in different colours; some shops sell it in grey, but if you look online you will find sellers on eBay and other online stores who sell it in purple and other colours!
The setup costs for Vetbed are a lot more expensive than other materials, but it does last well (2 years plus) in good condition, and the financial savings when compared against the cost of regular buying of ‘traditional’ beddings is significant.
Washing Vetbed
Summary – detergent; low-mid temp; no softener.
Vetbed can be hand and machine washed, but it does get heavy. If you hand wash, you will soon develop the muscles you need to lift and wring the bedding! If you machine wash (preferable), don’t overload the machine. Pieces which amount to 3-4 square feet is usually the maximum a regular washing machine will handle. Again, don’t use fabric softener- this will put a bearing on the bedding which will stop it wicking the urine through as effectively.
Washing can be done at 30 degrees; for pigs on Vetbed due to illness/surgical recovery a wash on a higher temperature is wise. Vetbed dries quickly, usually around 20 minutes in the dryer or just over an hour on the line.
Fleece
Fleece works in pretty much the same way as Vetbed. It wicks moisture through it while the surface remains dry, it is hand and machine washable, and it comes in many colours and patterns. You can buy fleece from different types of shops – fabric stores, homeware departments, supermarkets. It is usually marketed as fleece throws or blankets, you need 100% polyester. It won’t be cut to size, but fleece is very easy to trim to the exact size and shape you want – just be sure to leave an extra inch or two around all the edges to ensure it won’t shrink down too small after a few dozen washes!
There are a few different types of fleece, but the most common is polar fleece. Anti-pill prevents the fleece getting bunched up after many uses, stopping the risk of a ‘bobbling’ effect on the surface of the fleece after many washes – though this usually only occurs in fleece that is a year or two old. Sherpa fleece is good for inside cosies and cuddlecups - it tends to be a little more like heavily-used (‘bobbled’) Vetbed in texture so is fluffier than smooth, flat polar fleece.
Fleece does not work very well when used on its own. At the very least, newspaper should be laid underneath the fleece. Ideally, towels or cotton mattress covers should be laid between these two layers. Unlike Vetbed, when the urine wicks through the fleece it doesn’t have anywhere to go, so it doesn’t fully wick through the fabric unless something underneath pulls it through. Fleece is not absorbent, so an absorbent layer beneath the fleece will ensure the surface remains dry and pull all moisture out of the fleece. Newspaper isn’t very absorbent, but on its own underneath 2 layers of fleece it will last for 2-3 days in a populated and large cage. With towels or cotton mattress covers, the newspaper is often dry due to the absorbent fabric holding the moisture.
Fleece is one of the cheapest options – setup costs (with or without towels/mattress covers) can be as little as £10!
Washing Fleece
Summary – detergent; low temp; no softener.
Washing is the same as for Vetbed and towels - no fabric softener! Fleece tumble dries on its own within 15-20 minutes (but beware, this does make it shrink), and line dries within a couple of hours. The temperature needn’t be too high, since very little or no moisture is held in the fleece; 30 degrees is plenty to get it clean, though you may wish to give it an occasional wash at 40 degrees.
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Woodshavings, CareFresh, and hay-and-newspaper aren’t for everyone. Those who have a particularly large cage may find it costs a small fortune to fill their cage. Some pigs have especially delicate respiratory tracts which are easily irritated by the dust in so- called ‘traditional’ beddings, while some pigs have other medical issues – such as pododermatitis – which make walking on shavings and hay quite painful.
‘Alternative bedding’, in other words a material or fabric bedding, is the collective term for bedding which you wouldn’t normally associate with guinea pigs. The three main runners are fleece, Vetbed, and towels. Specific information and advice on each is given with each section, and overall recommendations are included at the end of the article.
When I talk of setup costs, it means the initial cost, the one-off payment at the start. Fabric beddings are reusable, so you don’t have to continuously buy more. Most materials last at least a couple of years. It is advised you buy at least 2 full cage sets, so you don’t need to wait around for the set you just pulled out to wash and dry before you can kit the cage out again. I personally prefer having three full sets, just in case I can’t get the first set washed and dried in time for the next clean out.
Towels
Towels are not commonly used on their own. The absorbency is perfect for piggies, who tend to pee and poop wherever they please, but the surface can be damp to the touch in areas of heavier urination. However, white towels on their own are ideal for post-operative recovery. Especially in pigs who have had abdominal surgery involving a large incision and sutures, white towels show up any oozing or bleeding from the site while usually still being able to absorb the offending liquid. In cases of surgical recovery, the towels will need changing often, at least 2-3 times per day.
Regular cotton bath towels work very well for guinea pigs, though for those wanting a more decorative and themed cage, cotton beach towels work quite well!
Setup costs vary, but you can buy towels very cheap; there's no need to buy expensive ones.
Washing Towels
Summary – detergent; higher temp; no softener.
Towels should be soft, but do not use any fabric softener when you wash them -this will significantly decrease the absorbency of the material. Instead, if you have access to one, use a tumble dryer to dry and soften the towels. My own preference is to hang them on the line until they are almost dry, and then throw them into the dryer for 20 minutes. To dry straight from washing, it will take 30-60 minutes for a selection of towels to completely dry in a dryer on high heat.
I like to wash towels on a higher temperature than Vetbed or fleece, simply because towels hold a lot of moisture whereas Vetbed and fleece don’t. A 30 degree wash is sufficient to get it clean, but at least once a month, and in times of illness/surgical recovery, a 50 or 60 degree wash should ensure a deeper, more thorough clean.
Vetbed
Vetbed is available in many pet stores, and quite prominently in some pet store chains. It’s not advertised for small animals – usually it is in the dog bedding section – but it is ideal for regular piggie bedding. It usually has a stiff fabric base, with a thick, soft, fluffy layer on top. The benefits of Vetbed include the fact that all moisture wicks down to the stiff base while the top remains perfectly dry. As with towels, Vetbed is also recommended for post-surgical recovery – most Vetbed is white, so will show any stains from oozing/bleeding while keeping these leaks away from the piggies (more hygienic). Vetbed can be ordered in different colours; some shops sell it in grey, but if you look online you will find sellers on eBay and other online stores who sell it in purple and other colours!
The setup costs for Vetbed are a lot more expensive than other materials, but it does last well (2 years plus) in good condition, and the financial savings when compared against the cost of regular buying of ‘traditional’ beddings is significant.
Washing Vetbed
Summary – detergent; low-mid temp; no softener.
Vetbed can be hand and machine washed, but it does get heavy. If you hand wash, you will soon develop the muscles you need to lift and wring the bedding! If you machine wash (preferable), don’t overload the machine. Pieces which amount to 3-4 square feet is usually the maximum a regular washing machine will handle. Again, don’t use fabric softener- this will put a bearing on the bedding which will stop it wicking the urine through as effectively.
Washing can be done at 30 degrees; for pigs on Vetbed due to illness/surgical recovery a wash on a higher temperature is wise. Vetbed dries quickly, usually around 20 minutes in the dryer or just over an hour on the line.
Fleece
Fleece works in pretty much the same way as Vetbed. It wicks moisture through it while the surface remains dry, it is hand and machine washable, and it comes in many colours and patterns. You can buy fleece from different types of shops – fabric stores, homeware departments, supermarkets. It is usually marketed as fleece throws or blankets, you need 100% polyester. It won’t be cut to size, but fleece is very easy to trim to the exact size and shape you want – just be sure to leave an extra inch or two around all the edges to ensure it won’t shrink down too small after a few dozen washes!
There are a few different types of fleece, but the most common is polar fleece. Anti-pill prevents the fleece getting bunched up after many uses, stopping the risk of a ‘bobbling’ effect on the surface of the fleece after many washes – though this usually only occurs in fleece that is a year or two old. Sherpa fleece is good for inside cosies and cuddlecups - it tends to be a little more like heavily-used (‘bobbled’) Vetbed in texture so is fluffier than smooth, flat polar fleece.
Fleece does not work very well when used on its own. At the very least, newspaper should be laid underneath the fleece. Ideally, towels or cotton mattress covers should be laid between these two layers. Unlike Vetbed, when the urine wicks through the fleece it doesn’t have anywhere to go, so it doesn’t fully wick through the fabric unless something underneath pulls it through. Fleece is not absorbent, so an absorbent layer beneath the fleece will ensure the surface remains dry and pull all moisture out of the fleece. Newspaper isn’t very absorbent, but on its own underneath 2 layers of fleece it will last for 2-3 days in a populated and large cage. With towels or cotton mattress covers, the newspaper is often dry due to the absorbent fabric holding the moisture.
Fleece is one of the cheapest options – setup costs (with or without towels/mattress covers) can be as little as £10!
Washing Fleece
Summary – detergent; low temp; no softener.
Washing is the same as for Vetbed and towels - no fabric softener! Fleece tumble dries on its own within 15-20 minutes (but beware, this does make it shrink), and line dries within a couple of hours. The temperature needn’t be too high, since very little or no moisture is held in the fleece; 30 degrees is plenty to get it clean, though you may wish to give it an occasional wash at 40 degrees.
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