Fighting Boars

clstarcher

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Hello! New member here!

I have three boars, Oreo, Milo, and Mo, who are going on three years old. They are all brothers and initially we brought home Oreo and Milo as babies. About a month later, we saw that Mo’s adoption had fallen through, so we added him to the group. I fell for the sentimental “keep the brothers together” train of thought, but am more educated now that a trio of boars is not recommended. Milo was the original dominate male over Oreo (more of the runt of the litter). With adding Mo, there was more domainance being displayed by Milo. We got through the “teenage years” with a lot of dominate behavior, rumble strutting, mounting, chasing.... occasionally we would find a small scab indicating a possibly more intense fight. Last night was the worst I saw. I was called to their room with the loudest cry I had heard from them. They scurried to their huts when I arrived. Oreo has a bloody nose, there were tufts of fur in their cage. I sat and observed their behavior, and they then came out fight again. Very threatening, mounting, lunging. It appeared that Oreo was the aggressor so I separated him leaving Milo and Mo. Things calmed down to non-aggressive (yet still excessive) mounting and chasing on Mo’s part.

At this point I am considering permanently separating them. The blood and old wounds might be my final straw. I just don’t know how to separate them? Should I still try keeping a pair? And if so, who should I pair. As babies, Milo was the aggressor. Then it seemed that Oreo finally got fed up and counteracted as a bully. And I would have always described Mo as the passive/calm guy, until his excessive mounting last night.

Additional Information:
They have a 2x5 C&C Cage with a covered 2x1 offset loft. They have three huts at all times, one large hay bag with four openings along one wall, one dry food bowl, and two water bottles. I will also interchange tunnels, fleece canopies, nibble toys weekly for variety.

I can try moving things around (I have read this can be good and bad 🤦🏻‍♀️). Incorporating an additional hay bag and additional food and water botttles so I have also heard to strip the cage down to the bare necessities (food, water, one covered corner) to prevent the piggies from needing things to dominate.... but this seems to go against everything I have read.... so much contradictory information out there.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what I can do or try as a last ditch effort before I turn towards permanent separation?

Thank You
 
Welcome to the forum

As blood causing fights have occurred, then permanently separating them is sadly the only course of action now. A boar trio is notoriously difficult to get to work (its hard to get the character compatibility right in a trio which explains the increased dominance you have always seen. A bullied piggy (in your case it sounds like Oreo) can either become withdrawn or they can get fed up with it and fight back) but as fights have happened it’s a clear sign they don’t want to be together as a trio anymore.

If you can work out which two piggies get on best, then do keep them together but a worst case scenario out of a boar trio is total failure and fall out resulting in three single piggies. You need one dominant and one submissive in a pair and if all of yours are more dominant and not prepared to back down, then a pairing is not likely to work out
You can try two piggies together by putting them in a neutral territory bonding pen and letting them decide if they like each other.

This guide explains how to carry out a bonding - Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics

A 2x5 is big enough and the recommended cage size for a pair of boars and upper levels do not count towards the cage size (a trio needed a minimum of a 6x3 but lots of space alone isn’t enough to make it work). So, if you can make a pair, then they can stay in the 2x5, with the single needing their own separate 2x4 cage. The separate cage will need to be alongside the pair so he can have interaction through the bars to stop loneliness. If you cannot make a functioning pair and they all need to be kept apart, then it will be three separate but adjoining 2x4 cages.

The guides below offer further information

Bonds In Trouble
Boars: Teenage, Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?
A Comprehensive Guide to Guinea Pig Boars
Adding More Guinea Pigs Or Merging Pairs – What Works And What Not?
 
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I’m sorry that your boys have fallen out after all this time. Sadly, now blood has been drawn, you will need to separate them either in to 3 singles or work out which two are getting on and keep those two together having the single boar living next door so he can still have interaction through the bars and may be consider getting him a friend of his own if you have the time, space and money for a forth guinea pig
 
Welcome to the forum

As blood causing fights have occurred, then permanently separating them is sadly the only course of action now. A boar trio is notoriously difficult to get to work (its hard to get the character compatibility right in a trio which explains the increased dominance you have always seen. A bullied piggy (in your case it sounds like Oreo) can either become withdrawn or they can get fed up with it and fight back) but as fights have happened it’s a clear sign they don’t want to be together as a trio anymore.

If you can work out which two piggies get on best, then do keep them together but a worst case scenario out of a boar trio is total failure and fall out resulting in three single piggies. You need one dominant and one submissive in a pair and if all of yours are more dominant and not prepared to back down, then a pairing is not likely to work out
You can try two piggies together by putting them in a neutral territory bonding pen and letting them decide if they like each other.

This guide explains how to carry out a bonding - Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics

A 2x5 is big enough and the recommended cage size for a pair of boars and upper levels do not count towards the cage size (a trio needed a minimum of a 6x3 but lots of space alone isn’t enough to make it work). So, if you can make a pair, then they can stay in the 2x5, with the single needing their own separate 2x4 cage. The separate cage will need to be alongside the pair so he can have interaction through the bars to stop loneliness. If you cannot make a functioning pair and they all need to be kept apart, then it will be three separate but adjoining 2x4 cages.

The guides below offer further information

Bonds In Trouble
Boars: Teenage, Bullying, Fighting, Fall-outs And What Next?
A Comprehensive Guide to Guinea Pig Boars
Adding More Guinea Pigs Or Merging Pairs – What Works And What Not?
Thank you so much for your advice. I have made a temporary separation in their cage and have ordered supplies to work on an expansion for a little more room.
 
I’m sorry that your boys have fallen out after all this time. Sadly, now blood has been drawn, you will need to separate them either in to 3 singles or work out which two are getting on and keep those two together having the single boar living next door so he can still have interaction through the bars and may be consider getting him a friend of his own if you have the time, space and money for a forth guinea pig
Thanks! I have worked a temporary separation. Trying Oreo and Mo together, while moving Milo out.... hopefully with will restore some peace. Reintroducing has been a little rough, but no fighting as of yet!
 
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