Bonding questions?

LuLu431

Junior Guinea Pig
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I am building a new cage and it will be done in couple hours (drying time) and it is about 13.5 ft.^2 and I’m about to get another female to go with my current female in about two weeks and I have a couple questions.

  • Can I put my current pig in the new cage or should I wait for the second one so they have a new cage to be in?

  • I know with other animals will fight if there’s not two of everything is this the same for guinea pigs?

  • my current pigs playpen is a clean bathtub. If a clean it very well can this be used as a first meeting place?

  • would these parter combination be good? Skittish and outgoing. A smaller one and a larger one. A nurtured male and a female.

  • any tips?
 
You can put your current pig in the new cage before you get the second but you will need to make an entirely neutral bonding area to carry out the bonding.
Don’t use anywhere the existing piggy will already see as her own space.

It all comes down to character compatibility so one needs to be dominant and one submissive - they can’t both be dominant as that is when a bonding will fail. It’s impossible to tell whether one is going to be dominant by being outgoing etc. My nervous piggy is the dominant of my two. Size doesn’t matter either.

If you are buying a piggy on spec from a shop for example, then you do run the risk of there being incompatibilities so a plan b for living arrangements is needed in case the bonding fails.
A neutered boar/sow bonding is more stable but it still comes down to character compatibility

A Closer Look At Pairs (Boars - Sows - Mixed)
Bonding and Interaction: Illustrated social behaviours and bonding dynamics
Sows: Behaviour and female health problems (including ovarian cysts)
 
Hi

Guinea pigs are territorial; you always have to conduct the bonding in a place that is not regularly used by any of the parties involved. You can use the new cage as a bonding pen, provided your new arrival hasn't previously used it. I would not use the bathtub as your boy could be territorial about it if he has been a regular sole user.

If you want to go for a mixed gender pair, then one party needs to be de-sexed. Be aware that boar neutering only takes away the ability to make babies, but does not change personality or outlook in life and does not change their behaviour. Any bond stands and falls with mutual liking and character compatibility, and there is nothing you can really predict how the dynamics between the two will develop.
You may find the additional information in these guide links here helpful, as they provide an in-depth look at aspects we cannot expound all the time in a single post or thread, seeing that we are all doing this for free in our own free time. Please take the time to read our links.
A Closer Look At Pairs (Boars - Sows - Mixed)
Rescues, Shops, Breeders or Online? - What to consider when getting guinea pigs (also includes a chapter on rescue dating and links to recommended good welfare standard guinea pig rescues for several countries)

Insecure piggies can over-react with fear-aggression, which is becoming an increasingly more common issue due to the indiscriminate mass breeding for pet shops or for-sale breeders. A piggy being tame and cheeky with humans may react very differently when faced with another guinea pig. It is very difficult to predict the reaction. Age and gender come generally a long way behind character compatibility. A bonding is generally easier with a sub-teenager (under 4 months) because at that age, youngsters very much rely on companionship and guidance from an elder and are much more accepting. Sub-adult sows are often more accepting of a boar because they have the biological behind them - but a happy bonding is not guaranteed even in that case. With baby boars you have to then navigate teenage and with spayed sows (who are usually around 6 months or older) you may be facing fear-aggression issues. A cross gender intro is not - other than most people seem to think - not necessarily fail-safe. I've got plenty of t-shirts!

If you are lucky to have access to a good guinea pig rescue that offers dating for your single or bereaved piggies, then please go down that route; it may take longer, involve travelling a distance and not be quite as cheap, but it is well worth it - including support in case the bond is not working out. Otherwise you have to be able to offer adjoining cages so each piggy can have their own territory but have all the vital stimulation via pheromones, body language and vocal interaction that a social species like guinea pigs needs as your fall-back option.

I hope that this helps you?
 
Thank you for all the advice 🙂
i have a few more questions-

  • I have another bathroom that Lulu (current guinea pig) has never been in. It is a very large bathroom and if I put hay, vegetables, tunnels, and some two doored hides would that be a good bonding area?

  • Should I have two food and water bowls or can they share?

  • How long should the bonding last before I put them in there new cag?
 
Thank you for all the advice 🙂
i have a few more questions-

  • I have another bathroom that Lulu (current guinea pig) has never been in. It is a very large bathroom and if I put hay, vegetables, tunnels, and some two doored hides would that be a good bonding area?

  • Should I have two food and water bowls or can they share?

  • How long should the bonding last before I put them in there new cag?

The bonding and interaction guide I added in explains fully how to carry out a bonding and the behaviours you are looking for.
The other bathroom is fine to use.
owever, you do not add any hides or tunnels into a bonding area - there should only be food.
Again, the bonding guides explain the things you are looking for and how to decide when they are ready to move into the thorough cleaned out cage, but they will be in the neutral bonding area for several hours. Depending on how things go, it could even have to be overnight. The need to get themselves sorted out into a rough hierarchy before you can move them.

When they go into the cage, you should have as many of every item as there are piggies - so two bowls, two bottles, two hay piles, at least two hides. They may not be prepared to share anything.
You do not have to use food bowls at all. Scatter feeding veg and pellets loose around the cage can mean food hogging cannot occur, it also means that it encourages natural foraging behaviours and keeps then entertained.
 
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